Aeolian Islands - Isole Eolie

Aeolian Islands
Aerial view of the Aeolian Islands with Vulcano and Lipari in the foreground
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Aeolian Islands - Location
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Tourism site

Aeolian Islands is an archipelago of the Tyrrhenian Sea which is part of the Sicily

To know

In 2000 theUNESCO has proclaimed the archipelago a world heritage site. They are seven islands of a beautiful archipelago full of wonders, not only the aesthetics of the islands are fantastic but they are also fertile lands for the production of wine, such as Malvasia Delle Lipari a typical grape of the Aeolian Islands.

Geographical notes

The archipelago, of volcanic origin, is located in the Tyrrhenian Sea, north of the Sicilian coast. They include two active volcanoes, Stromboli is Volcano, as well as various secondary volcanism phenomena.

When to go

Tourism in the Aeolian Islands is purely summer, given the attractiveness of the sea and beaches, however even in the mid-seasons they present several good reasons for a visit. In the middle of winter, even if the climate is not prohibitive, it presents the great unknown of the sea and weather conditions that could even drastically change the travel plans. If the sea is strong, in fact, the connections are interrupted and there is the risk of being blocked even for days. The risk is always greater for the more distant islands.

Background

The Aeolian islands take their name from Aeolus the god of the winds. According to legend, Odysseus passed through this area before unleashing the wrath of Aeolus who again made him lose the route towards Ithaca.

Volcanoes emerged from the sea about 350,000 years ago, forming the tops of a system of underwater elevations that rise from waters as deep as 3,000 meters. Around the archipelago there are more underwater volcanoes that are no longer active.

In the year 4000 BC, the first settlements were founded in Lipari. Historically, the Aeolian Islands have played an important role since prehistoric times when they were an important center of trade with the peoples of the Aegean. The presence of obsidian made it maintain its centrality for a long time. In the following centuries, the archipelago has lived through different cultural eras and has been repeatedly influenced by the immigration of various populations.

The islands were then colonized by the Greeks and the culture flourished. With the conquest of the Romans in 251 BC The Greek settlements were destroyed and the islands lost their strategic importance. The archipelago was depopulated with the fall of the Roman Empire.

A revival began in the 18th century, which allowed trade to flourish, but at the expense of agriculture, which led many residents to emigrate. Today of the 20,000 islanders who reside have tourism, agriculture and fishing as their main source of income. The Aeolian Islands are mostly sterile due to the soil made of lava, ash, lapilli, pumice, basalt, obsidian and volcanic sand. The inhabitants cultivate dry soil with olive trees, vines and capers with great difficulty.

In 1949, the Islands were rediscovered becoming the set of some films such as Stromboli by Rossellini with Ingrid Bergmann, but it also became the set of the Postman with Massimo Troisi.

Spoken languages

Although local dialects such as Sicilian are spoken among the locals, the traveler will find that Italian is also spoken by most people. Those involved in the tourism trade can also speak English, German or French.

Culture and traditions

Myths and legends

Liparo (hence the name of the island) was the son of King Ausone (himself son of Ulysses), ruler of an Italic kingdom. Forced by his brothers to leave the kingdom of his father, Liparo reached the Aeolian islands together with a group of warriors and founded a colony there. One day Eolo arrived in Lipari, who made friends with Liparo and decided to make an exchange that was advantageous for both: Liparo would have ceded dominion over the island to Aeolus, together with the hand of his daughter Ciane (not to be confused with the homonymous nymph from whom comes the name of the nearby river Syracuse) and in return Aeolus would have done his utmost so that Liparo could return to his land, taking over an area near Sorrento where he became king.

Ulysses arrives on Eolia

Aeolus he had the reputation of having the power to control the winds for this reason some myths identify him as the god of the winds. However, it seems that he had more than anything else the skill in the use of sails and observing the smoke of the volcanoes of the Aeolian islands, he was able to predict the direction of the wind without ever making mistakes.

The Aeolian Islands also appear in theOdyssey with Ulysses he lands on the island of Eolia and meets Aeolus, described as the king of the winds. Aeolus gives Ulysses a wineskin that contains all the winds. Ulysses leaves with his companions and after nine days of navigation, when he is already in sight of Ithaca, is seized by sleep. So his companions take the opportunity to open the wineskin, believing it to be full of precious objects. In this way, all the winds are released and a great storm is unleashed, which drives Ulysses and the crew away from Ithaca and pushes them back near the island of Aeolia. They then turn back to Aeolus, but this time the king of the winds, considering them hated by the gods, sends them away without helping them anymore.

Suggested readings

  • Alessandra Dagostini, Under the Aeolian sky. Poems, Dibuono Edizioni, Villa D'Agri di Marsicovetere (PZ), 2016, ISBN 978-88-99590-04-8
  • Salvatore Spoto, Ancient Sicily, Newton & Compton Editori, Rome, ISBN 88-8289-750-8
  • G. Bongiorno, The islands of the dream, 1989, in "Sicilia What's on".
  • Francesco Longo, The sea of ​​stone. Aeolian or the 7 places of the spirit, Laterza, Bari-Rome, 2009.
  • Leopoldo Zagami, The Aeolian Islands between legend and history, Pungitopo Editrice, Marina di Patti, 1993, ISBN 978-88-89244-11-9.
  • Sergio Giani, Medicinal plants of the Aeolian Islands, Pungitopo Editrice, Marina di Patti, 1996, ISBN 978-88-85328-52-5.
  • Mammana Angel, The sources of the Aeolian islands, City of the Sun Editions, Reggio Calabria, 2006, ISBN 978-88-73510-97-0.
  • Jean Houel, Journey of a painter to the Aeolian Islands, edition edited by Giuseppe Buzzanca and Lucio Falcone, Pungitopo Editrice, Marina di Patti, 2004, ISBN 88-89244-01-1.
  • Luigi Salvatore of Austria, The Aeolian Islands. Landscape and architecture in 19th century prints, Pungitopo Editrice, Marina di Patti, 2004, ISBN 978-88-89244-03-6.
  • Alexandre Dumas, Journey to the Aeolian Islands, translation by Angelita La Spada, Pungitopo Editrice, Marina di Patti, 2007, ISBN 88-85328-74-1.
  • Lucio Falcone - Angelita La Spada, Aeolian cuisine, Pungitopo Editrice, Marina di Patti, 2007, ISBN 88-85328-98-9.
  • Clara Raimondi, To the Aeolian Islands in the wake of Ulysses. The diaries of the great travelers of the past, Centro Studi Eoliano, Lipari, 2008, ISBN 978-88-90191-17-6.
  • Michele Giacomantonio, Navigating in the history of the Aeolian Islands, Pungitopo Editrice, Marina di Patti, 2010, ISBN 978-88-89244-67-8.
  • Massimo Marino, It was like going to the moon. The difficult journey of the Aeolian emigrants: stories, images, documents, data, Eoliano Study Center, Lipari, 2010, ISBN 978-88-73510-97-0.
  • Giuseppe La Greca, Curzio Malaparte to the Aeolian Islands. Life in confinement, loves, works, Centro Studi Eoliano, Lipari, 2012, ISBN 978-88-97088-01-1.
  • Macrina Marilena Maffei, Women of the sea. A submerged history of the Aeolian archipelago, Pungitopo Editrice, Marina di Patti, 2013, ISBN 978-88-97601-22-7.
  • Pietro Lo Cascio, "Things other than volcanic." The Aeolian Islands of the nineteenth century explored by Mandralisca and other naturalists, Pungitopo Editrice, Gioiosa Marea, 2014, ISBN 978-88-97601-39-5.

Suggested movies

  • Stromboli (land of God) by Roberto Rossellini with Ingrid Bergman (1950)
  • Volcano by William Dieterle with Anna Magnani (1950)

Territories and tourist destinations

Urban centers

  • 1 Ginostra - Second port of the island of Stromboli with a small marina. The center can only be reached by sea or with a strenuous excursion on foot.
  • Leni - Small town on the island of Salina
  • 2 Lipari - Main center of the island, whose municipality extends administratively also to the territories of the other islands.
  • Malfa - Contains most of the hotels in Salina and is the second most popular destination for hotels in the Aeolian Islands
  • Santa Marina Salina - It is the largest city, port of access to the island of Salina.
  • Stromboli - The main inhabited center of the island.

Other destinations

  • 1 Alicudi Island - It is located in the western part of the archipelago next to Filicudi, this island is mainly agricultural.
  • 2 Filicudi Island - It is located in the western part of the archipelago next to Alicudi and is one of the least known.
  • 3 Lipari Island - The main island and the main town (also called Lipari) is the transport hub, with many hotels and a good base. A relatively pedestrianized island compared to the exotic Vulcano. Fortunately, it has less exotic prices, and the big main city has a nice old quarter and a fair amount of non-touristy shops. Among the attractions of Lipari there is the pumice quarry, which can be reached from the capital with an infrequent bus service. This is right on the sea, and has a nice rocky beach where, curiously, many of the rocks tend to float in the sea!
  • 4 Island of Panarea - A small and luxurious island with a great view of the Stromboli.
  • 5 Salina Island - A lush, hilly island, great for a relaxing stroll. Some scenes from the film The postman were shot here.
  • 6 Stromboli Island - The most remote of the islands, that is, little more than a volcano rising from the sea. Popular for overnight trips to see the lava gushing from the cone. Not far away there is the islet of Strombolicchio, at the northeast end of the archipelago. The most spectacular of the islands, as it is the only one currently active from a volcanic point of view. In fact, it is the only volcano in the world known to be continuously active throughout its history. The approach with the ferry from Lipari leads to one of the sides of the island where the summit crater rises, which is permanently enveloped by clouds of its own emission. The town of Stromboli has pretty narrow streets and, further from the center, beautiful black sand beaches on rocky coves. The attraction not to be missed is the night climb to the crater. The departure is tough (you will climb about 850m) but you will see an incredible sunset and the eruptions are spectacular. The journey is completed by running along the volcanic ash tracks, in the dark!
  • 7 Vulcano Island - Right next to Lipari, this island is dominated by the cone of Great Crater emitting clouds of sulphurous gas. This peak offers great views. The island is famous for its beaches and its own mud baths. The first stop for ferries from Milazzo. In addition to the spectacular view of the narrow channel between this island and nearby Lipari, you are also greeted by the strange sight of a sulfur pile, right by the harbor, with an intense smell accompanying it! Next to the beach, the locals have created a depression in the volcanic clay filled with yellow mud. After taking a mud bath, you can swim in the sea and wash yourself. Swimming here is a very special experience, because the fumaroles extend to the sea, boiling the hot gas and giving the feeling of being in a Jacuzzi in the blue of the Mediterranean!
The other main attraction on Vulcano is, the volcano! Thanks to a steep climb from the city it is possible to walk to the top of the island for a spectacular view of the other Aeolian islands. If you have closed shoes, you can cross the active emissions on the north side of the main crater upwards. A large amount of steam and stinking gas is emitted here, and large crystals of sulfur can be observed. Be careful not to burn your feet on hot rocks and steam.


How to get

Access to the islands is allowed upon payment of a disembarkation fee of € 5 per person. The cost is included in the ferry tickets and is paid for each island you land on. Therefore it is always advisable to stop for a long time on each island.

By plane

A connection from the airport is available on request Reggio Calabria with AS-350 helicopter, and also from the airport of Catania.

On boat

The Aeolian Islands can be reached by ferry or hydrofoil mainly from Milazzo, Messina is Naples. In summer some hydrofoil lines depart from Palermo with a stop Cefalù, but also from Messina with a stop Capo d'Orlando, indirect and secondary links also with Vibo Valentia, Sant'Agata di Militello, Reggio Calabria. The connections by ferry from Naples are biweekly with higher summer frequency, the journey takes 10 hours to touch the first island (Stromboli).

The main companies that make the connections are:

It is important to check timetables in advance and allow plenty of time for connections, as boats can be early or late. The connections can be interrupted in the winter period due to bad weather, and in exceptional conditions you may even risk extending your stay by a few days waiting for better weather conditions. During the summer, due to the large influx, it is always necessary to book all the ferries well in advance.

On the train

The most convenient RFI station, so to speak, is Milazzo which, however, is considerably far from the embarkation dock and obliges the tourist to use public transport or taxi to reach the embarkation dock 4.5 km away.

How to get around

On boat

Moving between island and island is relatively easy, especially in summer, thanks to the coastal shipping connections. Also in the summer many small local private companies offer daily sightseeing tour services and mini cruises, as well as transfers in boat-taxi. Information about this can be found on each island at the port or in the agencies in the village as soon as you have landed, however each islander is able to help you. Attention in the winter months, when the already low frequency of connections could be further slowed down by the weather conditions, it is advisable to organize yourself always leaving a couple of days to spare on your itinerary-program.

For example, the Siremar company in 2015, starting from Milazzo and arriving in Naples in 16 hours, connected by ferry not direct the following ports of the Aeolian Islands every two weeks (in order):

  1. Milazzo
  2. Volcano
  3. Lipari
  4. Rinella (Salina Island)
  5. Santa Marina (Salina Island)
  6. Filicudi
  7. Panarea
  8. Ginostra
  9. Stromboli
  10. Naples

The same itinerary is repeated several times a week excluding the arrival in Naples but reversing the route to Vulcano to repeat it backwards (circular itinerary), offering the connection service to all the islands. Pay attention to the timetables, some stages are sometimes skipped or at others the ferry stops for a scheduled interval. However, it is possible to leave Milazzo in the day and return there having touched all the islands, or part of them, obviously without being able to visit them, this to clarify that if you have to go to Panarea for example to collect a suitcase or accompany a person you can then return in one day in Milazzo.

Hydrofoil services are very fast but uncomfortable if you have a lot of luggage. Furthermore, the hydrofoil is more sensitive to rough seas and is more frequently subject to delays or suspension of service. Prices are higher but times are halved. The paths are similar. There are races for both hydrofoils and ferries direct on Lipari and / or Vulcano which act as a connection node with the other islands.

Those who visit the Aeolian Islands and want to take a tour will find themselves faced with the difficulties of any visiting itinerary in any self-respecting archipelago with the complication that in the Aeolian Islands there is no airport that can make up for the connection defects as it can happen instead. in cycladesGreek, this is also the Aeolian charm.

What see

Aeolian house. Note the cubic shape, the white color, the terrace (bagghiu) bounded by bisola and from the columns (pulera)

Architecture

A characteristic of the Aeolian Islands is the particular architecture of the houses. Scattered in small villages or in the countryside, you can see the white cube-shaped houses built in the old Aeolian style. This simple form and best resists continuous volcanic tremors. Houses usually consist of square rooms which are never connected to each other and lead to a large terrace called bagghiu (beam). This is usually covered by a canopy roof, which sits on wooden beams and provides shade in the hot hours of the day. On the edge of the terrace there are round pillars, the typical pulera, which serves as a support for the pergola. The terrace is enclosed by a low wall, with stone seats, on which the pillars are incorporated. The seats are often covered with colored tiles (majolica). If there is another floor, this can be reached via a curved external staircase. The upstairs rooms are connected by a terrace. The roofs are flat and were used to collect rainwater.

What to do

Hiking

View from Vulcano of the Aeolian Islands

The various islands are very suitable for hiking, above all Stromboli, which with the continuous volcanic activity allows you to always admire the spectacle of the eruptions both from the sea but above all from the summit. You can climb the volcano with expert guides even if it is necessary to have all the physical predispositions being the difference in height of 900 m. Much more within reach is the ascent of Volcano both to admire the central crater with the gaseous emissions and for the incredible panorama of the Aeolian Islands that can be enjoyed.

The other islands also have several very interesting hiking trails, both for the geographical nature and for the beauty of the places. Each island has its own characteristic to discover.

Beach life

During the summer the Aeolian Islands attract a large number of tourists due to the beauty of the beaches and the great variety. Each island has different conditions for swimming both in crowded beaches and in almost isolated places. There are also some bathing establishments.

At the table

The Aeolian Islands are obviously famous for their catch. However, the most typical product are capers and cucunci, the fruit of the caper with which various local dishes are seasoned.

Drinks

  • Malvasia of Lipari - a Muscat wine. With this dessert wine the grapes are ripened in the sun on mats to obtain the highest possible sugar content.


Safety

Cell phone coverage is reliable in established areas, but Internet access is rare. There are some internet cafes in the town of Lipari.

Around

The archipelago itself is a around so the only next destinations to visit outside of it are the embarkation ports to reach it. Among these, as well Milazzo natural entrance to the Aeolian Islands, it should be noted, in summer, Cefalù reachable by a direct hydrofoil service from Lipari. On the coast you can also reach Capo d'Orlando and obviously Messina.

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