Normandy - Normandia

Normandy
Abbazia di Mont Saint Michel
Location
Normandia - Localizzazione
Coat of arms and flag
Normandia - Stemma
Normandia - Bandiera
StateFrance
CapitalRouen
Surface 30,100 km²
Inhabitants3.568.476 (2012)
Tourism site
Institutional website

Normandy (Normandie, Nouormandie in Norman language) is a region of the France overlooking the English Channel.

To know

Normandy is famous for the invasion of June 6, 1944 (D-day) by the allies which marked the beginning of the liberation of continental Europe from German occupation during the Second World War.

Geographical notes

Normandy is a historical creation and does not have a true geographical unity: it is divided between the two great natural regions of northern France, consisting of the Parisian basin and the Armorican massif.The landscape difference is however little accentuated, since both regions enjoy the same climate and prairies and cultivated fields are found identical in both.

The coasts have very different aspects: high cliffs in the region of Caux (Alabaster coast), vast beaches of fine sand in Calvados (region of Auge, Bessin, Costa fiorita) and great variety in the English Channel, with elevated headlands in the north of the peninsula del Cotentin and low and sandy coasts in the area of ​​Saint-Vaast and del Mont Saint-Michel.

Among the nature reserves are the Cotentin and Bessin Marshes Regional Park and the Norman Seine Bends Regional Nature Park.

When to go

Typical Norman weather is characterized by rain followed by sun followed by more rain. Here is a rainbow above the Acquigny castle.

The climate in Normandy is very similar to that of southern England, with mild winters and hot summers. The weather can be unpredictable and it is rainy by French standards, but it is often very beautiful too. Many people visit it during the summer, from June, when the annual D-Day commemorations take place, until the end of August. While it's perfectly possible to escape the crowds in much of Normandy even in the high season, popular destinations are usually thronged with international tourists in the summer, often accompanied by hasty and grueling day trips from Paris. Therefore, the best time to visit the top attractions is late spring and early fall, where hopefully the right balance between reasonable time and manageable crowds will be struck.

Background

Normandy is the land of the Normans, of the Northerners partially cultured by France and who arrived for the first time in 820. The Duchy of Normandy it was born from a treaty signed in 911 between the Viking leader Rollo and the Frankish king Charles III. Rollo is widely recognized as the founder of the Norman civilization and his descendants became the Dukes of Normandy, one of whom - William the Conqueror (Guillaume le Conquérant) - invaded theEngland in 1066 and crowned himself King William I. Then followed a long period of Anglo-Norman rule on both sides of the Canal and Normandy was for several centuries part of the Kingdom of England. During this period many defensive castles and Romanesque and Gothic churches were built and the famous bayeux tapestry it was woven by hands now unknown.

This state of affairs was only altered by the Hundred Years War (1337 - 1453), since the Kingdom of France it was regaining its territory more and more. During this period, the French national heroine Giovanna D'Arco (Jeanne d'Arc) was executed by the British a Rouen. Despite this blow, the French won the war and the only part of Normandy that remained under British - now British - control is today the Channel Islands. In fact, the British monarch still holds the title of Duke of Normandy.

Canadian soldiers of the 9th Canadian Infantry Brigade land at Juno Beach

Part of France was occupied by the Germans between 1940 and 1944, Normandy was also the subject of an invasion beyond the much more recent canal, theOverlord operation conducted by allied forces during World War II. After the landings on the beach on June 6, 1944, the Battle of Normandy raged until the end of August and caused the destruction of entire cities such as Caen is Le Havre. Normandy thus became the first part of Western Europe to be liberated from fascism, and the squeeze acquired by the allies on the continent was essential for the eventual defeat of Nazi Germany.

Today, Normandy is a peaceful land that is an integral part of France. The Norman people have not forgotten the sacrifices of their liberators and throughout the region you will see the French tricolors, American stars and stripes, Canadian maple leaves and British Union flags. The countless cemeteries and war memorials, although owned by the respective countries' war graves commission, are lovingly cared for primarily by the locals and are therefore kept in perfect condition.

Spoken languages

The French it is the primary language spoken throughout Normandy and visitors with a knowledge of French should have no communication problems. The local language spoken by some is Norman, which is closely related to French, although they are not always mutually understandable. Like the other regional languages ​​of France, Norman has suffered from persecution and a lack of support from the central government and mainly clings to more rural areas of the region, such as the Cotentin Peninsula and the Pays de Caux (north of Le Havre). . However, travelers hoping to meet Norman-speaking people might visit le Channel Islands, where the local Norman dialects are officially recognized and promoted.

Visitors who are unfamiliar with French should be able to get by in most cases simply by using theEnglish, especially when it comes to professionals in the tourism sector. However, it is customary to learn at least a few basic phrases, and many French people pretend not to speak English well to avoid speaking it.

Territories and tourist destinations

On 1 January 2016, the administrative regions of Upper Normandy and Lower Normandy were reunited into a single entity. This was an extremely popular move with local regionalists. However, for travel purposes, Wikivoyage argues that the two smaller regions are helpful in understanding the destination as a whole.

Normandie wikivoyage carte.png
      Upper Normandy (Haute-Normandie) - Region located between Paris and the English Channel, where the Seine flows and meets the sea. Upper Normandy is home to the cities of Rouen and Le Havre, picturesque landscapes on the alabaster coast and the home of the impressionist painter Claude Monet.
      Lower Normandy (Basse-Normandie) - The more rural west of Normandy lies above and around the Cotentin Peninsula, which winds its way into the English Channel. Lower Normandy was the site of the D-Day landings and much of the subsequent fighting. Other outstanding locations include the cities of Bayeux and Honfleur.

Urban centers

  • Rouen - The elegant capital of Normandy has a rich medieval heritage, with numerous important Gothic monuments and many half-timbered houses. Joan of Arc met her gruesome fate here in 1431, when she was burned at the stake as a heretic.
  • Caen - Capital of Lower Normandy. In contrast to much of Normandy's old world, Caen is a modern city, due to its near-complete destruction in 1944, a tragic outcome meticulously recorded by the city's Musée du Mémorial. Thankfully there are still some surviving relics of ancient Caen, including two abbeys and several churches.
  • Cherbourg-Octeville - Commune located in the Manche department. A maritime city and ferry port with two museums of national importance: the Musée de la Libération and the Cité de la Mer. Cherbourg also serves as a base for exploring the wider Cotentin Peninsula and western D-Day beaches.
  • Dieppe - A lively seaside resort with the closest beach to Paris, popular with weekends and hikers. In 1942, it was the site of a catastrophic raid by Canadian troops and other allies that led to the Nazi victory; in 1944, the Canadians returned and liberated the city. From here the ferries depart forEngland.
  • Honfleur - 17th century port where you can spend a couple of days or at least to visit the impressive church of Santa Caterina whose vaulted ceiling is made up of an immense overturned drakkar. Still an active fishing port, Honfleur is a popular spot for seafood restaurants.
  • Le Havre — unesco At the mouth of the Seine is one of the main seaports in Europe, known for its museums of art and natural history. The modernist center of Le Havre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Other destinations

  • Giverny - The country house of the best-known painter of the Impressionist movement, Claude Monet. Visit the gardens that Monet considered his best work and enjoy the bucolic surroundings of the village in rural Normandy.
  • Mont Saint-Michel — unesco Tidal islet located on the northern coast of France and heritage ofUNESCO. World famous both for its intrinsic beauty and for the fascinating phenomenon of the tides that attracts people from all over.
  • D-Day Beaches - On June 6, 1944, hundreds of thousands of Allied troops landed on French sand through five named beaches - Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword - which stretched from Cherbourg west to Ouistreham East. The ensuing Battle of Normandy and the final victory on the Western Front are commemorated in hundreds of cemeteries, monuments, services and events throughout the area.


How to get

By plane

Normandy is not overly blessed with air links and has only two small international airports:

International airports near Normandy are:

By car

From Paris, take theAutoroute française 13.svg towards Rouen, with a journey of about 2 hours. Caen it is about 2 hours and 45 minutes from the capital, while Cherbourg it's about 4 hours. There Autoroute française 28.svg connects traffic from the south, for example Le Mans is Tours, for the Autoroute française 10.svg from Bordeaux and finally from Spain. Who comes from Rennes and from the rest of the Brittany should find theAutoroute française 84.svg. If you drive from the north (Upper France and Benelux), the Autoroute française 28.svg branches off from Autoroute française 16.svg to Abbeville and heads in Upper Normandy.

Driving times from the ferry port of Calais and from the Channel Tunnel terminal it is approximately 2 hours to Rouen using the motorways Autoroute française 16.svg is Autoroute française 28.svg.

On boat

A trip across the English Channel can also be made. It is not then so away, only 120 km at most between West Sussex and the D-Day beaches, and Normandy where there are many attractions and port cities in which to dock.

That said, most visitors who make a sea crossing will do so aboard a ferry and the information signs show the various routes to Normandy and neighboring ports from english islands. The length of each route varies greatly, as do the facilities onboard each ship, ranging from a seating area for passengers with just a drink machine to cool off, to full board "cruise ship style" with cabins, restaurants and entertainment all provided. If you bring your own vehicle, remember to drive on the right as soon as you disembark!

Ferry routes from Channel Islands

Condor Ferries from Jersey (Saint Helier) to:

Manche îles express from Alderney is Guernsey to:

Manche îles express from Jersey (Gorey) to:

Manche îles express from Jersey (Saint Helier) to:

  • Barneville-Carteret: 1 hour 5 min
  • Granville: 1 hour and 25 min

Ferry routes fromEngland

Brittany Ferries from Portsmouth to:

  • Cherbourg: 3-hour express catamaran, several departures per day
  • Le Havre: "économie" overnight, 8 hours, without cabins
  • Ouistreham, near Caen: 6-7 hours during the day or overnight, cruise ship style with cabins, two departures per day
  • Saint-Malo, near Mont Saint-Michel: 12 hours overnight, cruise ship style with cabins

Brittany Ferries from Poole for:

Condor Ferries from Poole for:

  • Saint-Malo in 8 hours, including a 50-minute stop at Jersey or Guernsey.

DFDS Seaways from Newhaven to:

  • Dieppe: 3 hours-3 hours 30 min, two departures a day

Travelers from London and fromEngland Southeast may find it quicker and more flexible to use shorter (1 hour 30 minutes) and much more frequent services between Dover is Calais, with DFDS or P&O Ferries. From Calais, follow the road signs by car.

Ferry routes fromIreland

All services from Ireland to France they are available overnight and provide booths.Brittany Ferries from Cork for:

Irish Ferries from Dublin to:

  • Cherbourg: 8 pm, departure on Saturday afternoon, overnight travel and arrival on Sunday morning

from Rosslare to:

  • Cherbourg: 7 hours and 30 minutes, several times a week
  • Roscoff: 17 hours and 30 minutes, only in summer

On the train

Normandy is not connected to any high-speed rail lines (TGV), so services to and around the region are rather slow by French standards.

From within France

The trains SNCF Intercités depart from Paris Saint-Lazare for Rouen Rive Droite (1 hour and 30 minutes), Le Havre (2 hours), Caen (2 hours), Cherbourg (3 hours), to other locations. You can take trains from these cities to other destinations in the region.

For the south of the region, trains depart from Paris from Gare Montparnasse to cities such as Argentan is Granville. For Mont Saint Michel, the best option is to take a high-speed train from Gare Montparnasse to Rennes, then a bus.

Rail services from other parts of France are not that great, but still feasible. For example, services directed by Tours to Caen take about 3 hours while those traveling from Nantes in Caen should expect a 4 hour journey, changing trains at Le Mans. For those coming from Lille, which is a hub for high-speed trains since Benelux and from Germany, a direct journey of 2 hours and 45 minutes to Rouen is possible.

From United Kingdom

L'Eurostar colleague London to the Gare du Nord in Paris in 2 hours and 15 minutes. From Gare du Nord, it is only one stop to Haussmann Saint-Lazare on line E of the RER (express metro), from where you need to follow the instructions above.

Alternatively, you may want to take it slowly, combining the train with a ferry crossing. On the British side, the port of Portsmouth and the port of Newhaven they both receive regular trains from London and many other places. Three ferry ports in Normandy (Cherbourg, Le Havre is Dieppe) have railway stations served by regional trains.

How to get around

By car

Unfortunately, the best and fastest way to get around Normandy, especially in rural areas, is by private car. The road network is well developed, although Normandy and the Northwestern France in general they tend to have fewer motorways (autoroutes, with route numbers prefixed to A) and multiple national roads (routes nationales, with route numbers prefixed with N). This has the advantage of far fewer toll roads than in other parts of the country. The main roads in the region are:

On the train

Exquisite-kfind.pngTo learn more, see: Traveling by train in France.

Normandy lacks high-speed trains and its rail network, while not bad, is best described as erratic. L'Upper Normandy, particularly around Rouen and the Seine valley, is part of the Paris commuter belt, so it has decent coverage. There Lower Normandy more rural it has fewer lines and fewer trains serve them. Traveling by train is still an inexpensive way to get around. Most of the trains are provided by TER Normandie, from which you can buy tickets and view one map of the regional network.

What see

Yachts moored in Honfleur

Castles

In Normandy there are both a variety of "ruined fortresses" and "bizarre castles". A notable example of the former is Château Gaillard by Richard the Lionheart a Les Andelys, a seemingly impregnable fortress that dominates an impressive viewpoint, but which only lasted a few years before being captured by the Spaniards. An example of a castle that provided comfort and defense can be seen in the Castle of the Dukes to Alençon. There are also some castles in the region with no defensive purpose which were built purely to showcase the wealth and prestige of their owners. An example is Renaissance castle of Gaillon, slightly worn, in the city of the same name, and the Balleroy Castle of the seventeenth century near Bayeux, now owned by the Forbes family, obsessed with hot air ballooning, and American media affairs.

It costs

Normandy has several coasts, each with a different character. Further east is the famous one Alabaster coast (Côte d'Albâtre), known for its white chalk cliffs, which mirror similar formations on the south coast of England. Étretat is the most famous of the cliffs, while Dieppe it's more of a seaside town with a history of war. The beautiful places of the Flowered coast (Côte Fleurie), including Deauville is Honfleur, they are quite elegant; this area is popular with Paris' second homeowners, with good reason. Continuing west you will find the beaches of the lesser known Coast of the Mother of Pearl (Côte de Nacre) around Ouistreham, then the infamous ones D-Day landing beaches (plages du débarquement), which stretch for many miles along the Cotentin Peninsula. At the top of the Cotentin (near Cherbourg) are the lively ports of Barfleur is Saint-Vaast, along with wild and rugged landscapes around The Hague. The west coast of the peninsula offers a long stretch of sandy beaches that lead south beyond Granville until Mont Saint-Michel and on the Breton border.

Christianity

There are literally hundreds of medieval churches, abbeys and cathedrals scattered throughout Normandy, mainly in the Gothic and Romanesque style. Romanesque architecture, characterized by rounded arches and many pillars, is often known by the British as "Norman", as they were the ones who introduced the style to many parts of Europe. Significant examples of this style include the church of Saint-Étienne and its abbeys a Caen, the Benedictine abbey of Fécamp and the cathedral of Bayeux. L'gothic architecture it developed from the Romanesque in the nearby Picardy, but it is also more than represented in Normandy. Gothic churches tend to be more elaborately designed than Romanesque ones, with pointed arches, flying buttresses, intricate stained glass windows, and gargoyles. Notable examples include the Notre Dame de l'Assomption Cathedral and the Saint-Ouen church, both a Rouen. The abbey of Mont Saint-Michel it stands out for its Gothic style, but with several older elements that retain the Romanesque.

What to do

Flight along the alabaster coast

There Avenue Verte cycle path connects Paris to London. In Normandy, it is possible to follow the route from the hinterland of Dieppe through the countryside of the Seine-Maritime a Beauvais beyond the border of the Picardy. This section is 122 km in total and is fully signposted with green signs.

The Grandes Randonnées (GRs) are long distance trails. They are usually well maintained and marked with red and white horizontal bands, which are painted on poles, trees and at the bases of the pylons. You can choose to go all the way if you have a lot of time! Otherwise, select day trips or an itinerary for a few days by walking along the most interesting parts. Normandy has two noteworthy coastal GRs:

  • The GR 21 follows northeast from Le Havre to Le Tréport at the Norman / Picardy border. This 186km route encompasses the entire Alabaster coast and its glorious chalk cliffs and welcoming harbor towns. Like other long-distance trails, the GR21 lends itself to much shorter walks, with the highlights around Étretat is Dieppe particularly favorites.
  • The GR 223 (Sentier des Douaniers) goes from Honfleur east along the coast of Calvados, around Cotentin to the Mont Saint Michel, on the Breton border to the west. The whole walk takes a month, but most prefer to choose sections based on their interest. History buffs often choose D-Day beaches, while lovers of spectacular nature (cliffs and coves) prefer to stroll through Cap de la Hague, west of Cherbourg, and still others choose to approach Mont Saint-Michel around its bay of the same name.


At the table

The Normans have always known how to appreciate good food. Here is William the Conqueror celebrating his Hastings victory over a party with friends, as depicted on the Bayeux tapestry.
« 
OR ! Cher poète, je te fais don
De ma recette: tripes à la mode
Pour cuire de bonne façon
Parfaitement selon le tails »
(Opening verse of Jean Le Hir's recipe for Caen tripe)

Norman cuisine is quite close to standard French cuisine, although it is based on the three main products of the region: seafood, apples and dairy products. Its regional specialties are guaranteed to satisfy the most demanding palates.

Appetizers and snacks

La Mère Poulard, Mont Saint-Michel
  • Foie gras - Although much more associated with southwestern France, the production of this goose / duck liver pate has recently been introduced in Normandy. The birds are force-fed to make them as fat as possible.
  • Omelettes: a must try at Mont Saint-Michel; the local omelettes are creamy and light. The most famous omelette restaurant is La Mère Poulard, but long waiting times and high prices could lead you elsewhere.
  • Sausages: Popular local varieties include Andouille de Vire, a cured meat that is often served as an aperitif with a glass of calvados and boudin de Mortagne, black pudding from the far south of Orne, east of Alençon.

Trou normand

Trou normand (literally: "Norman hole") is a glass of calvados (see below), often accompanied by an apple sorbet, and served between courses during a long and heavy meal as a cleanser for the palate. a digestive aid and a fortifier, to make sure the table is ready to continue eating! It is often served between the fish dish and the main course, or in less elaborate meals as a bridge between the main course and the dessert.

Main meals

Tripes à la mode de Caen

Normandy is renowned for its variety of meats:

  • Agneau de pré-salé - Lamb raised in the salt flats near Mont Saint-Michel. The meat has a very mild flavor and can be prepared in many classic ways for French butchery and gastronomy.
  • Canard au sang or canard à la Rouennaise - Duck or duckling served with a sauce made from the same duck blood and bone marrow, extracted from a special press. Every part of the bird is used, so in the menu you might come across magret (chest), foie (liver), patte (leg) or a little bit of everything. The thought might make your stomach spin, but if you have good reason to trust the chef, give it a try. This specialty of Rouen it is considered a delicacy.
  • Poulet vallée d'Auge - Chicken from the Auge valley, in the area around Lisieux. The bird is carved into large chunks and cooked in a sauce of calvados, mushrooms, butter and cream. Often served with a creamy blend of potatoes, bacon, and cider.
  • Tripes à la mode de Caen - Beef tripe, hooves and bones, stewed in a full bottle of cider and glass of calvados with carrots, onions, leeks, garlic, cloves, peppercorns and a bouquet garni. The autumn dish of choice for many Normans. Its official recipe, codified in poetry, is preserved by a guild of tripe butchers in Caen. While they almost certainly date back to no earlier than the 14th century, local legend states that this was William the Conqueror's favorite meal.

Seafood specialties include:

  • Mussels (moules) - Of course you can find the ubiquitous ones moules marinières (steamed mussels with white wine and shallots) in almost all fish restaurants, but also the local version, moules normandes, it's delicious. To the sauce marinière a portion of cream is added as a base and, if you are really lucky, the bacon gibs. Both varieties are usually served with plenty of fries.
  • Oysters (huîtres) - Normandy produces about 25% of the oysters grown in France, and Normans tend to enjoy them more at Christmas. The industry is concentrated on the Cotentin peninsula, in two different choices: Côte Ouest around Deauville is Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue, east of Cherbourg.
  • Sole à la dieppoise - Baked sole, buttered with white wine and fish broth, and served with mussels, mushrooms and sometimes shrimps. As the name suggests, this is a specialty of Dieppe.

Cheeses

Camembert

Normandy is home to several world-famous varieties, all soft, all made from cow's milk and all named after their town or village of alleged origin:

  • Camembert - A delicious round and creamy cheese. Some prefer it cold, and therefore quite solid, while others prefer to eat at room temperature, when it oozes. Local legend attributes the creation of the cheese to the French Revolution, when Marie Harel, wife of a farmer living in the village of Camembert (department of Orne, 25 km north-east of Argentan), was informed by a priest about the recipe for a good brie, as a thank you for having protected him during the Reign of Terror, when the clergy were heavily persecuted. He then gave the cheese its shape and thus Camembert was born.
  • Livarot - Soft and pungent, with a peach-colored rind. It is also called "Colonel", thanks to its striped packaging that resembles a colonel's uniform. Livarot is a village about 20 km southwest of Lisieux.
  • Neufchâtel - Soft, slightly crumbly and seasoned cheese with mushroom aroma and flavor. It is usually shaped in the shape of a heart. It is produced in the area around Neufchâtel-en-Bray, north-east of Rouen.
  • Pont-L'Évêque - Pungent and creamy with a slightly yellowed appearance, made in the homonymous city in the hinterland of Deauville since the twelfth century.

Dessert

Apples from Normandy

Local desserts include:

  • Bourdelots - a paste of apples and calvados, consumed hot, cold with flamed calvados.
  • Omelette vallée d'Auge - a sweetened omelette filled with diced buttery apple e crème fraîche, flamed with calvados.
  • Pain perdu à la normande - sweet French toast served with apple jam and pommeau, which is an apple liqueur.
  • Tarte aux pommes - available throughout France, but as Normandy is the land of the apple, these tarts aren't hard to find.
  • Theurgoule - a tasty local variation of rice pudding, cooked for many hours in an oven over low heat, is surprisingly light and refreshing. You are not surprised because it is accompanied by a mixture of apples, caramelized apple or just fresh apples ...

Drinks

There are no commercial vineyards in Normandy, and although wine from other regions and countries is readily available in shops and restaurants, the most popular local drinks are apple-based.

  • Cider - As for the Brittany, Normandy is the land of cider. As much as wine, cider comes in different varieties that are meant for different purposes, so you should pay attention to the following words on the label. Doux indicates a sweet cider, with a strong apple flavor and a low percentage of alcohol (3% or less), which is best drunk with dessert or on its own. Demi-sec / brut it is sharper and fresher, with an alcohol content of between three and five percent. This type of cider is more common as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to local cuisine, especially seafood. Unlike some other countries, especially the United States, cider in Normandy is always alcoholic and always sparkling (pétillant).
  • Poiré - Similar to cider, but based on pears. Production is considerably limited compared to its apple-based counterpart.
  • Calvados - A brandy made from distilled cider or Poiré, subject to a controlled designation of origin (AOC), which limits production to a specific area with strict quality controls. Calvados is famously used for trou normand to drink between the plates of a long meal.

Liqueurs

Cider seller at the port of Honfleur
  • Pommeau - An aperitif resistant to 16-18% obtained by mixing calvados and unfermented apples (or pears, in the case of poirineau).
  • Bénédictine - A herbal liqueur with its creation myth (i.e. that the medieval Benedictine monks of Fécamp, and not 19th-century entrepreneur Alexandre Le Grand, invented it), but without a whiff of an apple. Consumed as a digestive, with an alcohol content of 40%.


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