Eating and drinking in South Tyrol - Essen und Trinken in Südtirol

The Italian-Mediterranean influence on the down-to-earth alpine cuisine is of course in South-Tirol particularly pronounced. In addition to traditional dishes such as dumplings, Schlutzkrapfen, Tirtlen and Krapfen, pasta dishes, pizza, risotto and other Italian delicacies are very popular.

Spinach (left) and cheese dumplings (right) and Schlutzkrapfen filled with spinach (center)

The rural cuisine is maintained at a good level in the taverns and farms. The Törggelen, a tasting of freshly harvested chestnuts, types of fruit and young wine, is maintained in all wine-growing regions from October to December. Barley soup, smoked meat, sauerkraut and sweet donuts are also served. There are mostly farm taverns outside of the wine-growing areas, they do not grow their own wine. For a Buschenschank license, it is mandatory to press and serve your own wine.

In the pizzerias and restaurants you will find a combination of Italian and Alpine cuisine. All bars and cafes serve the obligatory Italian coffee, as espresso, macchiato, cappuccino, latte macchiato ...

In the last few years gourmet cuisine has experienced an enormous boom. More than 10 restaurants have one Michelin star, and St. Hubertus in St. Kassian (Gadertal) even has two. Almost seventy award-winning restaurants cook at a high level and favor the use of local, seasonal products.

Appetizers

One can find many starters that one considers from Italian cuisine antipasti knows, but there are also many dishes that can only be found on South Tyrolean menus.

  • Calf's head is served in different variations, angry Lukewarm, with onion rings, vinegar and oil with bread or potato salad as a side dish, breaded veal head slices, served hot with potato salad or as a veal head salad.
  • Sour beef is actually a leftover meal. Soup meat from the production of meat broth is cut into thin slices and made into a kind of beef salad with onions. It can also be that the garnished meat is served dry and that you can add vinegar and oil yourself. Bread is eaten with it.
  • Ox mouth salad is made from boiled or cured cattle mouths, cut into cubes and mixed with celery, onion and dressing to make a salad.
  • Tyrolean bacon is usually served thinly sliced.

Dumplings, cams and more

The origin of the dumplings probably coincides with times when the utilization of leftover bread was essential for survival. The old bread is soaked in milk, eggs and spices, cooked in salted water and that's it. A wonderful dish that is prepared and combined with many ingredients in South Tyrol. Whether meatless or as bacon dumplings, as a side dish or main course, this is how South Tyrol tastes. In Italian cuisine, however, there is hardly any dish with which dumplings are served.

  • Tris is a triad of dumplings, dumplings or donuts, each cook has his own variant. Often the dumplings are poured with melted butter and sprinkled with parmesan. Cabbage or a salad is served as a side dish. Tris is usually on the menu with the starters, and the dish is so filling (unless you are a mountain farmer) that it can also be used as a main course.
  • bacon dumplings are often served as a main course with sauerkraut or coleslaw. But they are also popular as a soup addition.
  • Tirteln. Tirteln in the encyclopedia WikipediaTirteln (Q1258510) in the Wikidata database.are a lard biscuit made from a dough made from wheat and rye flour, milk, eggs and butter. Palm-sized leaves are rolled out of the dough, coated with filling, covered with another leaf, the edges sealed and then baked in hot fat until light brown. They are filled in different ways, a distinction is made between sweet, sour and green tartlets. The green variant is filled with spinach or Swiss chard, curd cheese and mashed potatoes. In the sour one is mostly herb. There are also variants with meat or offal, chocolate or semolina. Sweet tartlets are filled with jam or cranberries and locust bean gum and are often eaten as a dessert.
  • Potato leaves (Frittelle di patate) are an old farm dish made from potatoes. The boiled potatoes are finely grated and made into a smooth dough with flour, melted butter and an egg. After a resting period, the dough is rolled out into thin sheets of paper with a rolling pin and baked until golden yellow in hot fat. They are often eaten with sauerkraut or white cabbage, but other side dishes including jam are also possible.

Soups

Depending on the season, there is tomato, zucchini or pumpkin soup. Popular soups also include bread soup, fried potato soup, wine soup and bacon dumpling soup. The barley soup is served with the Törggelen.

  • A barley soup is a stew with barley grains, vegetables and meat or bacon. This simple soup is served in mountain huts and also in elegant hotels. It is a typical South Tyrolean specialty that you should try. In the Pustertal, the soup comes with one Tirtl served, it is a baked dumpling, filled with a curd mixture, spinach or sauerkraut.
  • Sour soup consists of meat broth with a stoving and a dash of vinegar, hence the name. The ingredients in the soup are tripe, strips of beef stomach.
  • Bacon Dumpling Soup is made with dumplings made from sliced ​​bread and bacon, served in a meat soup or in a vegetable stock and garnished with chives.
  • The deposit of the Deep fry soup are cut strips of pancakes, which are served in a clear broth with chives.
  • Basis of wine soup is usually a not too acidic white wine, e.g. a Sauvignon, or a Pinot Blanc in a broth with an egg yolk and decorated with croutons.

Main courses

Most livestock breeds have been living in South Tyrol for several thousand years and have adapted to the special environmental conditions on the steep slopes. Regardless of whether the meat comes from beef, veal, pork, lamb, goat or poultry, it is very often kept and fed appropriately in South Tyrol. When it comes to wild animals, you can find roe deer, stag and wild boar on the menu. Meat dishes are very popular and are eaten as a main course.

  • The Gröstl is a traditional leftover meal from earlier times that the South Tyroleans have preserved. The base of the pan dish consists of boiled potatoes and mostly onions, with traditional roast meat or black pudding. There are hardly any limits to the imagination of the chefs, there are many variations, e.g. B. vegetarian with mushrooms. At the Herrengröstl beef or veal are taken Bauerngröstl may contain beetroot, pickles or cabbage. Fischgröstl is usually prepared with stockfish.

Pasta

The warm, carbohydrate-rich "Primi piatti", the first course, is part of the Italian tradition. The trend in South Tyrol is moving towards making these dishes the main meal and avoiding the actual main course. Most tourists are also overwhelmed with three courses at lunchtime.

  • Schlutzkrapfen (Schlutzer, Schlickkrapfen, Schlierkrapfen, Schlipfkrapfen) are similar to Italian ravioli. The crescent-shaped dumplings are made with a mixture of rye and wheat flour. Traditionally they are filled with meat, potatoes, spinach curd, onions, nutmeg and eggs. There are no limits to the variations in the fillings. With beetroot (Rohnen) filled, they are served with poppy seed crumbles.

Marende

The Marende corresponds to the southern German snack or Austrian snack. It is a cold afternoon snack, often with bacon, raw ham, smoked sausage or smoked meat, sausage, alpine cheese and Schüttelbrot.

  • South Tyrolean baconSpeck Alto Adige in the Wikipedia encyclopediaSüdtiroler Speck in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsSüdtiroler Speck (Q1550412) in the Wikidata database is protected by a European designation of origin. In contrast to Parma ham, the bacon is separated from the thigh bone. The bacon from lean pork legs becomes mildly smoked and then has to mature for at least 22 weeks. It is either sliced ​​thinly or served as a 1 cm thick slice.
  • Kaminwurzen are a typical South Tyrolean specialty. A permanent sausage made from pork and beef, smoked over beech wood and air-dried in the cellar.
  • 1 The Nigg Butcher in Terlan is known for its sausage and bacon specialties.

Pastries

  • Schüttelbrot is a crispy flatbread made from rye flour, water, yeast and salt. It is often seasoned with caraway, fennel seeds, anise, black clover or coriander. Taste and appearance vary from region to region. In the old days it was baked on mountain farms because of its long shelf life. Today it is traditionally eaten at Marende with bacon or cheese.
  • Val Venosta (Vinschgerlen, Vinschger Paarlen) are flat rolls made from rye-wheat sourdough and yeast. They are the size of a hand plate, two to three centimeters thick and are traditionally baked in pairs. They are typically seasoned with black clover, coriander, fennel and caraway. They stay fresh for several days and are suitable for longer hikes.

Sweets

  • Strauben consist of flour, butter, milk, eggs and sugar. The liquid dough is poured in a spiral shape into a pan with oil through a funnel and baked. They are eaten warm, sprinkled with powdered sugar or with jam.
  • donuts or Church day donuts are a traditional South Tyrolean dessert. Thin dough is baked in oil and sprinkled with icing sugar. They often consist of two thin layers of dough with a filling. There are many variations of the filling, e.g. apricot jam, cranberries, poppy seeds or chestnut puree.

ingredients

cheese

  • The one only known in Tyrol Gray cheese is a skimmed milk cheese with 0 to 2% fat in dry matter, it is used with cheese dumplings or made with vinegar, oil and spices (sour gray cheese).

Cheese factories

  • 2 The Capriz Feinkäserei in Vintage offers a show dairy, shop, bistro, vinotheque and museum. Goat and cow milk are processed.
  • 3 In the DEGUST s.a.s Affineur cheese dairy in Vahrn local, national and international raw milk cheeses and accessories for the cheese are offered. Various tastings are possible upon prior reservation.
  • 4 In the Waldsamerhof Show Dairy in the Gsiesertal The milk processing up to the cheese is carried out on the farm, with farm shop.

Apples

The Vinschgau is known for its apples. Whereby one should pay attention to organic apples, in industrial agriculture the apples are sprayed intensively. The most important varieties are:

  • Golden Delicious, the king of the Vinschgau, color green-yellow to golden-yellow, the taste is juicy, sweet-aromatic and with fine fruit acid.
  • The Red Delicious is also known under the name "Stark", it has a dark red color and is a crunchy apple, juicy and sweet, with a flavor typical of the variety.
  • The sour one Jonagold has a greenish-yellow basic color and a loose, crunchy flesh.
  • The organic variety Gala can be recognized by its light yellow basic color, the taste is crisp and juicy, with a sweet aroma and little acidity.
  • The Pinova is yellow to greenish, very crisp, juicy and firm.
  • Breaburn has a scarlet to dark red stripe, fruity refreshing
  • The Fuji has a pale pink to dark red and extremely aromatic.

The municipality of Natz-Schabs is also known as the "apple plateau", in the municipality almost everything revolves around the South Tyrolean apples.

asparagus

On the banks of the Adige at Terlan the asparagus grow in spring, as they say in South Tyrol.

  • Asparagus with Bolzano sauce: The asparagus is cooked with butter and possibly white wine, the Bolzano sauce is made from hard-boiled and chopped egg yolk and with vinegar and mustard.
  • That is also known Terlan asparagus risotto with asparagus pieces.

Chestnuts - Keschtn - Chestnuts

At the Törggelen in autumn, young wine and roasted chestnuts are served in the taverns to nibble on. The fried keschtn in a paper bag warm your cold hands while strolling through the Christmas markets. The edible sweet chestnuts, also known as sweet chestnuts, should not be confused with the horse chestnuts that are common north of the Alps.

By the way, chestnuts are not only fried in South Tyrol. The brown fruit is also used as a filling for sweet donuts or chocolate chestnut hearts, as a mousse, cream soup or cake ingredient, and chestnut noodles are also offered.

Mushrooms

In South Tyrol, mushroom picking is only allowed on even days between 7:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m., you need a fee-based permit from the respective municipality (€ 8 per day); locals are exempt from this in their own municipality. Per day and person, residents of the municipality are not allowed to collect up to 1 kg, for residents it is 2 kg, unless it is expressly prohibited at the relevant point. The transport must be free of damage, as must the collection. Failure to comply will result in severe penalties.

fish

You can find char and trout in the lakes, streams, rivers and fish farms in the mountain valleys. The further south you go in South Tyrol, the more often scampi and calamari are on the menus.

  • 5 At the Vahrn fish pond in Vahrn you can fish and buy fish. Friday evening there is fish soup and fish salad. The specialties are "Bluatknedl", Stockfischgreastl and sour soup.

Smoked

Smoked meat is smoked meat from pork, beef or game. Like ham, it is thinly sliced ​​and served as a starter or at the end of the season. Cut into small cubes, it is used for cooking, as a condiment for casseroles, as part of dumplings or as an addition to soups.

beverages

Wine

Viticulture has been cultivated in South Tyrol for centuries. High day and low night temperatures have a favorable effect and give South Tyrolean wines a special fruitiness. South Tyrol is one of the smallest wine-growing regions in Italy. 98% of the wines are under DOC protection. Despite the small cultivation area of ​​5000 hectares and the produced amount of only 350,000 hl, over 7% of the "three-glass wines" come from South Tyrol. This important Italian award was given to 22 South Tyrolean wines in 2008. The Eisack Valley has specialized in white wine production and was thus able to take the lead in Italy.

Red wines

  • The Vernatsch is probably the best-known variety in South Tyrol, it has been cultivated since the 16th century. It gives simple wines by the bottle that should be drunk young.
  • Lagrein is a red grape variety that has been proven to have existed in South Tyrol since the 14th century, with colorful, full-bodied wines that are only grown in South Tyrol, mainly in the Bolzano valley basin, especially in the Bolzano district of Gries. Well-known wineries are z. B. Muri-Gries Abbey, Glögglhof, Perlhof etc.
  • The St Magdalener
  • The Pinot Noir is one of the oldest grape varieties in the world.
  • The Merlot comes from France
  • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Cabernet Franc

White wines

  • The Gewürztraminer is well known
  • Gold muscat
  • Rose muscatel

The South Tyrolean grapes grow mainly on more or less steep slopes, Conduct called. The vines are traditionally on one Pergel pulled, this requires a lot of maintenance. In flatter terrain, the vines are pulled on the trellis, there are more options for using machines.

The South Tyrolean Wine Route begins at Nals and extends on the right side of the Adige Valley through the Überetsch and the South Tyrolean lowlands until after Salurn.

  • 1 The South Tyrolean Wine Museum in Kaltern shows the history of viticulture in South Tyrol. Wine tastings are possible.

beer

Beer production has a long tradition in South Tyrol, going back to 985. The Forst brewery is the largest brewery in South Tyrol. But there are also small, experimental breweries in many places.

  • 1 The brewery restaurant of the Forst Brewery in Algund has a beautiful interior and South Tyrolean cuisine. Tours of the brewery in German take place every Wednesday at 2 p.m. from April to October.
  • 2 The Hops & Co. in Bolzano offers home-brewed beer and home-baked bread.
  • 3 The brewery Batzenhäusl is the oldest inn in the old town of Bolzano. In the brewery manufactory light, dark, whites as well as seasonal and special beers are brewed.
  • 4 In the Brewery - Restaurant Gassl Bräu in Klausen the classics are brewed according to the purity law, from pale ale to basil beer or chestnut beer. Restaurant with South Tyrolean cuisine, nice dining room, outdoor seating.

Schnapps and liqueurs

In South Tyrol, schnapps distilling and the production of liqueurs have a long tradition. The wide range of fruits is used to make fruit brandies, and the remains of wine production, the pomace, are used to make grappa. There is a wide range of liqueurs, and every farm or wine tavern prepares liqueurs according to their own recipes.

  • Zirmschnaps Swiss stone pine is made from the red cones. The cones, which are fully in the sap, are collected between the end of June and mid-July. They are cut into thin slices and soaked in corn brandy for five to six weeks. A brown liquid is created. If this is filtered and sugar is added, a Swiss stone pine liqueur. If it is not sugared and filtered, but rather burned, the result is a Pine spirit.

Soft drinks

Alcohol-free drinks are often used in mountain huts Ski water, a mixture of raspberry syrup with lemon juice and water, or mixed drinks made of peppermint and elderberry (elder) syrup are offered.

More drinks

The Spray, also Sprizz or Veneziano called, is a very popular drink in South Tyrol made from white wine or Prosecco, mineral water and Aperol, a bitter liqueur.

Hugo is an aperitif made from Prosecco, mineral water and elderflower syrup served with mint leaves.

Culinary calendar

Culinary delights are often seasonal. Fruits and vegetables are tastier when they are ripe; meat and fish are also subject to seasonal influences. Every season of the year, festivals are celebrated that have a general theme or focus on certain foods. There are also drinking and eating habits throughout the year that arose from religious traditions such as fasting times.

January

February

March

April

dandelion salad
  • Late April to early May will be around Our Lady in the Walde-St. Felix the Dandelion weeks hosted. Participating inns offer special dishes with dandelions.

May

June

July

  • From mid-July to the end of August there are in the places Sterzing, Mühlbach, Brixen, Klausen, Natz, Feldthurns Eisack valley street kitchens
  • The series of events takes place throughout the Eisack Valley from July to November On the way with pleasure

August

  • Eisack valley street kitchens
  • That will be in mid-August Polenta Festival in Naz celebrated

September

  • They are at the beginning of September Barbian plum weeks with the plum festival in Barbian
  • On a Sunday in September it will Dumpling festival in Sterzing hosted. Over 70 different types of dumplings are served on a 400-meter-long row of tables.
  • End of September is in Brixen the South Tyrolean bread and strudel market
  • Late September to early October 2017 are in Villnöss the Lamb weeks from Villnösser Brillenschaf
  • Late September to early October will be around Our Lady in the Walde-St. Felix the Radicchio days hosted. Participating inns offer special dishes with radicchio.

October

  • It is in all of South Tyrol Törggelen Custom, roast chestnuts are eaten and the new wine is tasted. Törggelen is invited in many inns and taverns and hearty dishes are also served.
  • The beginning of October is South Tyrolean Bacon-proof in Villnöss
  • In October that will Völser Kuchkastl organizes that Völser Landlords offer down-to-earth dishes based on old recipes.
  • Mid-October is the big one Apple Festival in Naz-Sciaves with a harvest parade and the coronation of the apple queen.
  • The Eisack Valley Chestnut Weeks are from mid-October to early November in Eisack Valley held. The participating innkeepers show how versatile the chestnut can be in the kitchen.

November

  • Törggelen

December

  • Törggelen

literature

Recipes

If you want to enjoy Tyrolean cuisine at home, you will find the appropriate recipes in Koch Wiki under Tyrolean cuisine. Have fun cooking at home.

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