Sudan - Sudan

The Sudan is the third largest country of Africa. It borders in the north Egypt and Libya, in the west to the Chad and on Central Africa, in the south to the South Sudan and in the east Ethiopia, Eritrea and to the Red Sea.

Regions

Sudan is officially divided into 16 states. From a traveler's point of view, there are the following regions:

  • 1 al-Charṭūmal-Charṭūm in the encyclopedia Wikipediaal-Charṭūm in the Wikimedia Commons media directoryal-Charṭūm (Q310385) in the Wikidata database - The region around the capital al-Charṭūm.
  • 2 North SudanNorth Sudan (Q14210054) in the Wikidata database - with the archaeological sights on the Nile,
  • 3 Red SeaRed Sea in the Wikipedia encyclopediaRed Sea in the Wikimedia Commons media directoryRed Sea (Q310120) in the Wikidata database - Region in the east of Sudan with the port city Port Sudan.
  • 4 DārfūrDārfūr in the encyclopedia WikipediaDārfūr in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsDārfūr (Q46733) in the Wikidata database - Region in the west of Sudan and crisis region.
  • 5 KurdufānKurdufān in the encyclopedia WikipediaKurdufān in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsKurdufān (Q867052) in the Wikidata database - Cultural landscape and former province in the south of Sudan.
  • 6 Southeast SudanSoutheast Sudan (Q14214610) in the Wikidata database - Region in southeast Sudan east and south of the capital region.

Cities

Map of Sudan
  • Port Sudan - popular diving area for the Red Sea
  • Dongola - Capital of the northern province, end of the caravan trade route "Darb el-Gallaba," which partially runs parallel to the "Darb el-Arbain“(Arab." Way of forty days ") runs.
  • Atbara - Transport hub and industrial city in the Nahr-an-Nīl Province (Nile State)
  • Khartoum - Capital
  • Wadi Halfa - Border crossing to Egypt on Nasser reservoir

Other goals

All places are in the Place list listed.

background

getting there

Entry requirements

tip
Note: Since 2016 people who have been in Sudan since 2011 are allowed to do so no longer visa-free (ESTA) enter the USA. A visa must be applied for in any case.
In the FRG: Sudanese Embassy. Tel.: 49 30 887 111 60. Valid for at least another 6 months, three free pages. The Forms are now designed with areas for thumbprints. Business travelers need an invitation letter from their partner there, tourists need a hotel booking. Instead of a hotel confirmation, an invitation from Sudanese friends is sufficient.Open: Mon.-Thurs. 10.00-14.00, Fri. to 12.30.Price: Tourist 30 days: € 60 (Fee table) Payment cash ONLY.
In Austria: Consular Council of the Sudanese Embassy, Reisnerstraße 29/5, 1030 Vienna. E-mail: . Open: Mon.-Fri. 9.00-16.00.
In Switzerland: Section consulaire de l'Ambassade, Ave. Blanc 51-53, 3ème étage, 1202 Genève. E-mail: . Online application visa additionally for self-drivers. Processing time 3-5 working days after receipt of payment.Open: 9 a.m.-12.30 p.m.Price: Tourist 60 days: 100 sfr.

When entering from neighboring African countries, a Yellow fever vaccination certificate Mandatory. When applying for a visa, you should allow enough time, a good two weeks. Those arriving from Egypt overland are probably better off applying for a visa in Aswan. There it costs (US $ 50 cash) and takes 1-2, rarely 5 working days. The consulate, which is open from 8.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m., is closed (12 El-Sadat, Sheyakhah Thaneyah) on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Citizens of Israel and people with Israeli entry stamps in their passports will be refused entry.

See also: List of Sudan's diplomatic missions abroad

Duty-free allowances

200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or a pound of tobacco.

There is an import ban for the local currency, "pornography" (including all pictures with bare chests), goods from Israel, alcohol, pork, fruit and vegetables.

By plane

Turkish Airlines flies daily to / from Istanbul, it is cheaper with Egypt Air with a change in Cairo.
Upon departure there is a $ 20 departure tax (payable in cash at the airport). You should definitely be very patient.

By train

There are no cross-border rail connections to Sudan.

By bus

There are buses out Nairobiapproaching the southern border of Sudan.outdated

Buses on the Cairo-Khartoum route (April 2017) also use the border crossing (approx. 22 ° 00'00.2 "N, 31 ° 13'25.7" E) at Argeen (أرقين), which is otherwise only open to private vehicles.

In the street

"The borders with Eritrea and Chad are closed." [1]

When entering the country, you must have a customs document that is valid for Sudan (Carnet de passage), which is used as a guarantee for customs clearance that has not yet been completed.

Ethiopia

One way of arriving from Ethiopia by car or bus is the road border crossing (12 ° 57'28.8 "N, 36 ° 09'06.9" E) at Metemma (መተማ) / Gallabat (القلابات).
The Sudanese Consulate in Addis Ababa (Ras Lulseged St. near the intersection of Mozambique St.; 9 ° 00'23.9 "N 38 ° 44'40.5" E) opens Mon.-Sat. 8.30-13.30. (2 passport photos, copies of passport and Ethiopian visa; hotel booking and onward travel visa - Germans, Austrians and Swiss, but no Liechtensteiners, receive at the Egyptian border visa on arrival.).
Minibuses leave early in the morning Gondar to the border in about five hours. It is about four hours to the first larger town in Sudan with accommodation, al-Qadarif (القضارف). From there there are buses to Khartoum.

Egypt

The border crossing from Egypt closes at regular intervals and depends on the diplomatic and trade relations of the two countries. It is therefore imperative to obtain current information before using this route. At least the compulsory convoy with paid escort north of Aswan appears to be abolished at the beginning of 2018. Entry by ferry from Aswan off is possible (see below).

Buses from Aswan, which cost 500 eg £ to Khartoum in 2018, leave early in the morning (5:00 a.m. to 8:00 a.m.). On this route, too, the river is crossed after a break in Abu Simbel. An exit fee of 60 eg £ (2018) is levied on the Egyptian since. The exit customs control is precise and takes time. An "entry fee" (60 sud £) requested on the Sudanese side is baksheesh and negotiable, especially if you show patience and ask for a receipt. On the way to Khartoum, the drivers take a break of several hours, arriving the next morning.

By boat

The Arrival from Egypt by ferry across the Nasser Reservoir (Aswan, Train with connection there from 7.15 am) since April 2017 only on Sundays (occasionally on Thursdays) for local trucks and foot passengers. The departure is usually between 2 p.m. and 4 p.m., but can be done anytime between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. The offshoot is at 23.973062 N, 32.896697 O) Prices in February 2018 were in 2nd class (wooden bench) 325 eg £, 1st class (not too clean 4-person cabin) 475 eg £, each plus 50 eg £ tax. Simple meals and drinks can be purchased on board. Travel time 20-24 hours.

Since the opening of the land border (at 22 ° 00'05.9 "N 31 ° 30'46.2" E) only a small corner of the lake in Egypt between Abu Simbel and Qustul has to be crossed.

inch

Car: 7000-8000 SD customs duties in Wadi Halfa (depending on the size of the car; as of 2006; the duty rates were changed in 2017).

Registration

The mandatory registration within three days of arrival in Sudan usually takes place at Aliens Registration Office of the Ministry of the Interior (opposite Al-Faisal Cultural Center, 15 ° 34'51.8 "N, 32 ° 34'13.7" E; Tel: 249 83781084, 249 83796502; this may be done by the hotel for a fee) in Khartoum . There is also a counter at the airport, but here you have to go through the security check in the departure area again.

From Egypt, you can register directly with the police in Wadi Halfa. This is recommended because three days to Khartoum by car mean a lot of rush and exceeding the penalty is punished with an additional fee.) Fees vary locally In 2017/8, 375-632 sud £ were due. Payments should be made in local currency, dollars are settled at the official rate.

Cost (2006): around S £ 70. You can do that without a guide. Don't waste money on it! Passport copy (1st page of visa with entry stamp) 1 passport photo is required.

mobility

Bus in Nyala.

Travel to Darfur always requires prior approval. Traveling in northern Sudan to the pyramids of Meroe and Karima is not a problem. Diving in the Red Sea has so far been unproblematic. “For trips outside of Khartoum, permits are required, which can be obtained from the Ministry of Tourism, hotels and travel agencies as well as from the police in the provincial cities. It is recommended to have sufficient copies of the travel authorization with you when traveling overland, as these are usually collected at checkpoints. " [1] The travel and photo permits are free of charge. The latter can be obtained from Ministry of Tourism and Wildlife (15 ° 35'52.8 "N, 32 ° 34'38.5" E) in Khartoum.

The Road network is only partially paved. The standard is a marked slope. Four wheel drive is advisable. (Alternative: high ground clearance, light vehicle)

Hitchhiking: In Sudan, ridesharing on trucks or their cargo is very popular. It is common to pay money for it that is negotiated in advance, in the city area Khartoum, Omdurman, Bahri (Khartum North) conventional (free) hitchhiking with the numerous pickups is very possible. The best way to stop the car is to "wave down" (with an arm bent and the whole hand or the Arabic "Come here" gesture).

Domestic flights: The air Line Sudan Airways flies to the following cities: Khartoum, El-Obeyid, Wadi Halfa, Port Sudan, El Fascher, Nyala, Malakal, Dschuba (Juba).

Tuk-tuk.

Shipping: There is passenger shipping on the Nile and other major rivers.

Taxis and Tuk-tuks (half-open three-wheel taxis) in cities.

language

The official language is Arabic.

to buy

Exchange rate (May 11, 2019): officially € 1 = 50.5 sud ₤. There is a lively black market, US dollars for series from 2006 onwards are preferred. During the political crisis in April 2019, the black market rate fell to 70-83 sud ₤ per US $.

Due to US enforced sanctions, international credit and debit cards cannot be used.

There is now a shopping center (AFRA) in Khartoum, which has all products mainly of Turkish origin. There are also smaller supermarkets in Amarat: Amarat Center on Street No.1 and the SEFCO on Cemetery Road located. A Dutch baker delivers excellent bread at the Coca Cola Roundabout as well as confectionery and has its own ice cream parlor and outdoor café. (Ozone Cafe).

kitchen

The role of the national dish in Sudan is certainly assumed by what is known in Egypt Ful. These are broad broad beans that cook over the fire for a long time and then, often mashed, are served with different ingredients. Oil is always included (often sesame or peanut). It can also contain tomatoes, onions, falafel (fried chickpea balls), cheese or a splash of lemon juice. It is eaten with bread (as "cutlery" with the right hand) from a common bowl.

In July 2020, alcohol was allowed for non-Muslims.

accommodation

In addition to the hotels, there is also the somewhat cheaper alternative of the “Lakonda”. These are pure overnight stays. The bed can be obtained from 5 SDGs, but around 10 SDGs is more likely.

public holidays

01.01.Independence day

security

Khartoum is considered to be much safer than many other capitals. You hardly hear of break-ins or robberies, you can move around on the street undisturbed. Nevertheless, caution is advised: the chaotic traffic and meter-deep holes in the pavement (sewer system) represent a greater danger.

homosexuality can be punished with death in Sudan. The barbaric provisions of the Sharia are used in ever wider areas of legal life.

Photography is only permitted with a special permit from Ministry of Culture and Information allowed.[1] Third World restrictions on military photography, bridges, etc., also apply. In addition, the sensitivities of the Muslims must be taken into account.

health

The south of the country is Malaria risk area, especially during the rainy season. Take mosquito net, malaria prophylaxis and spray with you! Health care is sometimes inadequate, even in the cities. Outside of the country, even basic health services are often not available. Sudan is Yellow fever risk area. A vaccination is urgently required and will be checked upon arrival!

In Khartoum you can get almost anything at pharmacies as long as you know the name of the active ingredient. Some of the drugs are much cheaper than in Germany (e.g. an N1 pack of the broad-spectrum antibiotic ciprofloxacin costs only 4.50 SDG.)

In Kauda (Nuba Mountains; Südkordofan region) there is a German bush hospital run by the GED (German Emergency Doctors). A German doctor and two nurses work there. The hospital is well supplied with medicines by plane from Kenya.

If you are seriously ill, it is best to contact the German embassy. There you can get information about English-speaking doctors and hospitals with approximately European standards.

Current: Currently the so-called Rift Valley Fever (wikipedia link) in Sudan. Particularly affected are groups of the population with close contact with cattle. Infection occurs through contact with raw animal products and unpateurised milk. Isolated cases of transmission have also occurred through infected mosquitoes. The region along the white Nile is affected Khartoum.

climate

Dry desert climate in the north, hot and humid tropical climate in the south. Sandstorms occur mainly in the months of April to July. In April / May and September / October there are heavy rains in the north. The rainy season lasts from April to October. [1] Winter rains only on the Red Sea, in the other parts of the country relatively dry and cool weather. The highest temperatures of up to 45 ° C are between March and July.

respect

Native men's clothing.

Appropriate clothing is important: no shorts. No clothes that are too tight for women. A headscarf is not required for Christians! Religion is a very important issue - both in the Islamic and in the Christian part - and should be taken seriously.

Practical advice

post

General: The postal system had serious shortcomings in the past. Letters to Germany often went missing or arrived late, but things seem to have improved recently. Numerous cards and letters without losses in Germany after two to three weeks.

Post restante items ("Poste restante"): Post restante items to Khartoum are problem-free. They can be picked up at the main post office (near the "Palast der Republik") free of charge. There is reliable storage. Information about poste restante consignments to other cities is not available. The shipment should be marked as follows:

FIRST NAME SURNAME
C | O POSTE RESTANTE
MAIN POST OFFICE
KHARTOUM
SUDAN

Underlined surname and neatly written block letters make it much easier to find the shipment.

Postage to Germany: Letter 400 SD, Postcard 200 SD

telecommunications

Mobile communications: The telecommunications company Sudatel operates a mobile communications network that works in the following cities, among others: Khartoum, Malakal, Dschuba (Juba), Ed-Damazin.

Telephone booths: The green Sudatel telephone booths are widespread in cities. At certain times (especially late in the evening) you don't seem to be able to make calls. There are cards e.g. for 800 SD which for approx. five minutes to Germany is enough.

Telephone shop: A good alternative to the telephone booth is the telephone shop, where after the end of the conversation the owner only has to pay for the time actually used. Often you can also find telephones at kiosks or in the "hole in the wall" shops.

Telephone calls to Germany currently (April 2006) cost 2.50 SDG per minute. Alternative: Net 2 Phone

Net 2 Phone (Internet telephony): Many Internet cafés and telephone shops in Khartoum offer telephoning over a DSL line. Equipment, connection quality and prices are very different and range from headset telephoning with a long time delay ("radio feeling") for 1 SDG per minute to telephoning with normal landline devices without any significant time delay for 0.50 SDG.

Internet

In Khartoum there are many internet cafés with different connection quality (1.50 - 2.00 SDG per hour). In the rest of the country, internet cafes are few and far between and can be quite expensive. However, it can be assumed that the number of Internet cafés will also increase here.

literature

Travel guides and maps

  • Ibbotson, Sophie; Lovell-Hoare Max: Sudan; 3rd ed. Guilford, Conn.: Globe Pequot Press, 2012, Bradt Travel Guides, ISBN 978-1-84162-413-6 . This English travel guide is currently the only one on the book market. The current third edition, however, dates back to 2012 and was reprinted in 2017.
  • Streck, Bernhard: Sudan: stone graves and living cultures on the Nile. Cologne: DuMont, 1982, DuMont culture guide, ISBN 978-3-7701-1232-6 . This art travel guide is still the most informative travel guide despite its age. You only have to cut back on the practical tips.
  • Sudan: scale 1: 2,500,000. Richmond, B.C.: International Travel Maps, 2009 (3rd edition), ISBN 978-1-55341-416-2 . With road map of al-Chartum.

phrasebook

  • Galla, Randolph: Sudanese Arabic: word for word. Bielefeld: Reise Know-How Verl. Rump, 1997, Gibberish; 58, ISBN 978-3-89416-302-0 .

Culture and history

  • Wildung, Dietrich: Sudan: ancient kingdoms on the Nile. Tubingen: Wasmuth, 1996, ISBN 978-3-8030-3084-9 , ISBN 978-3-8030-3087-0 . Exhibition catalog.

politics

  • Anhalt, Utz: Desert War: Yemen, Somalia, Sudan in US geostrategy. Berlin: Homilius, 2010, Compact; 21, ISBN 978-3-89706-421-8 .
  • Farkas, Barbara: China's Strategic Partnership with Sudan: A Threat to the International System?. Frankfurt et al.: Long, 2010, ISBN 978-3-631-61207-1 .
  • Mamdani, Mahmood: Blind rescuers: about Darfur, geopolitics and the war on terror. Hamburg: nautilus, 2011, ISBN 978-3-89401-736-1 .

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. 1,01,11,21,3[1] (zggr. 2017-07-01)
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