Northern Thailand - Nordthailand

In Northern Thailand(Thai: ภาค เหนือ) you can find centuries-old cultural monuments (some UNESCO World Heritage), the mountain regions with the hill tribes and the Golden triangle, Nature reserves with dense jungle and protected rare animals, as well as the lively - but not too large - metropolis Chiang Mai.

The north of Thailand

Regions of Northern Thailand

The regions of northern Thailand
Chiang Mai Province
Center of the Lan-Na cultural region and gateway to the north of the region.
Chiang Rai Province
The far north of the country, home to most of the hill tribes, with the Golden triangle.
Mae Hong Son Province
Region with the popular place Pai, Hill tribes and spectacular mountain landscapes.
Northern river valleys
Cities with centuries of cultural history as well as interesting and rarely visited mountain landscapes.
Lower Northern Thailand
The plains of the country with ancient Thailand such as Sukhothai, Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet as well as the trade and traffic hub Phitsanulok.

places

Sukhothai
  • Chiang Mai - Northern Thailand's largest city: university, commercial and cultural city
  • Chiang Rai - City rich in history and starting point for trekking to the hill tribes
  • Chiang Saen - historical city at the border triangle of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar ("Golden Triangle")
  • Kamphaeng Phet - historical fortifications and temple ruins in a beautiful historical park
  • Lampang - beautiful old temples; the elephant sanctuary is nearby
  • Nakhon Sawan - Trading city on the rivers
  • Nan - former capital of a small principality in the mountains
  • Pai - Once a sleepy town in a mountain valley, now a magnet for backpackers and "dropouts"
  • Phitsanulok - Important temple and trading city in the lower northern region
  • Sukhothai - The historical park with the Buddha statues and temple ruins of the old capital belongs to the world cultural heritage

Other goals

Wild elephant in Huai Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary

background

Northern Thailand actually consists of at least two sub-regions with very different landscapes, histories and cultures, which the Thai administration and the tourism authority grouped together quite arbitrarily: the upper and lower north.

Buddha statues in Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park

The lower north includes the northern part of the Chaophraya Plain. Apart from a few hills, the landscape is flat. Historically, it could be considered the cradle of today's Thailand. Here was the Sukhothai Kingdom, which reached its peak at the end of the 13th century and is considered the forerunner of the Thai state. This is where the Thai script and much of what is now known as "Thai" originated. The era is considered a high point of Thai art, especially the Buddha statues in their grace and charisma are considered by their lovers to be the most beautiful in the art history of the country. During this time the historical sites in Sukhothai, Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phetwhich are now accessible as historical parks and are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After the fall of Sukhothai, the area became part of the kingdom of Ayutthaya, which was ruled from central Thailand. That located in the lower north Phitsanulok temporarily acted as its "second capital", in which the viceroy resided. Therefore, one can also find important, old temples here. Among other things, Naresuan came from Phitsanulok, one of the most important kings in Thai history, who brought the zone of influence of Siam to a high point of its expansion. The dialect and cultural traditions of the lower north are very similar to those of central Thailand.

Chedi of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep near Chiang Mai

It is completely different in the upper north. This is divided into elongated mountain chains (the highest peak Doi Inthanon is 2565 meters high) and separated from these, also in north-south direction, almost parallel longitudinal valleys. For a long time, these were difficult to access, and in some cases they still are today. This region was - after Tai started from the 8th / 9th Haripunjaya Mon state, which existed in the 19th century (the capital was the present Lamphun) - ruled by the Kingdom of Lan Na. Its capital Chiang Mai was a far-reaching center of learning, religion and culture as early as the 15th century. Its relationships with the Tai peoples in southern China Yunnan, in the East Myanmar and also in Laos but were closer than to the Siamese in central or southern Thailand. Until well into the 19th century it was not regarded as a real part of Thailand, but as a vassal state. Today's conception of Thailand as a nation did not emerge until around 1900. States such as Chiang Mai or Nan had their own (albeit increasingly powerless) princes until the 1930s. To this day one can recognize peculiarities in culture, tradition and language.

In addition to its cultural history, the northern region is primarily known for its natural beauties: a large part of its area consists of nature reserves. The climate is considered to be the most pleasant in Thailand due to its location and altitude.

language

Thai (or Northern Thai) is the predominant language in the north. In the upper north, northern Thai is spoken, which can be viewed as a dialect or as a separate language, depending on your point of view. It used to be written with its own font, which is still used today for reasons of tradition, e.g. B. sees on the signs in front of temples. Standard Thai is taught in schools, used in the media and in authorities, which is why practically everyone understands and speaks it. In the lower north, on the other hand, dialects are spoken that are more similar to central Thai. English is only spoken in the tourist centers, by some younger people and partly among the higher educated classes.

In many parts of the north there are so-called hill tribes such as Akha, Hmong, Karen, Lisu, Mon, Lahu and many others, each speaking their own language.

getting there

By plane

In Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai there are international airports that are only served from Asian countries. There are often connections there from Bangkok, and to Chiang Mai from other domestic airports as well. There are important regional airports in Phitsanulok, Lampang and Nan, these are also served by scheduled flights from Bangkok several times a day. There are also small regional airports in Mae Sot, Sukhothai, Mae Hong Son and Pai.

By train

The northern line of the Thai Railway, which runs from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, runs through the region. Notable on-the-go stations are in Nakhon Sawan, Phichit, Phitsanulok, Uttaradit, Lampang and Lamphun. There are five continuous trains in each direction per day. Since it takes at least 11, usually even more than 12 hours from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, the night trains are particularly popular with travelers in order not to "lose" a day. With the day trains, on the other hand, you can enjoy the view of the passing landscape and the inexpensive food from the vendors who come through the trains during the stops.

By bus

Every provincial capital has a bus station, almost all of which are served by direct long-distance buses from Bangkok. There are also cross connections from the northeast region (Isan): from Ubon Ratchathani above Roi Et and Khon Kaen to Phitsanulok, Lampang and Chiang Mai; of Mukdahan (on the Laotian border) via Khon Kaen to Phitsanulok, Sukhothai and Mae Sot (on the border with Myanmar); of Nakhon Phanom or Bueng Kan above Udon Thani to Phitsanulok, Lampang and Chiang Mai. There are also continuous long-distance bus connections to the north from eastern Thailand: from Stepped, Rayong, Pattaya or Aranyaprathet (on the Cambodian border) to Phitsanulok or Mae Sot. The most important provider for such cross connections between the regions is the private company Phetprasert. It also offers Nakhon Chai Air Direct connections from Ubon Ratchathani to Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai or Uttaradit; from Surin to Chiang Mai and from Rayong to Chiang Mai, Mae Sai or Nan at.

In the street

The well-developed national road 1 leads from central Thailand to northern Thailand (partly like a motorway with separate lanes and several lanes in each direction). It is also signposted as Asian Highway 1 and leads through Nakhon Sawan, Kamphaeng Phet, Tak, Lampang (where the well-developed National Road 11 branches off to Chiang Mai), Phayao and Chiang Rai to Mae Sai on the border with Myanmar. Another well-developed cross connection from the Isan is the national road 12, which crosses the Phetchabun Mountains from Khon Kaen (there are some very curvy parts) before it leads through Phitsanulok, Sukhothai and Tak to Mae Sot with the friendship bridge to Myanmar.

mobility

  • Green bus. Tel.: (0)53-266480. The bus company maintains a good route network in northern Thailand. There are different classes on the routes up to the very comfortable VIP class. First class and VIP class have a clean toilet on board. There are ticket counters at all destinations. The ticket includes seat reservations, and there is even a baggage ticket for luggage in the belly of the bus. If you want to be on the safe side, you can reserve your ticket by phone (if in doubt, let the hotel staff call you). You get a reservation code and can pay for the ticket within two hours in any 7Eleven and have it printed out. The advantage of having a good view of the landscape ahead in the first row does not apply in the VIP class. The passenger cabin is separated from the bus driver's room by a wall.

Tourist Attractions

Padaung woman with necklace
  • Villages of the "hill tribes" in the provinces of Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Lamphun, Mae Hong Son and Nan - here it should be noted that some villages are very much geared towards tourists and pull off almost Disney-like shows. This is particularly the case with the Padaung with the so-called "giraffe neck women" (the actual settlement area of ​​the Padaung is not in Thailand, but in Myanmar, but some of the people have fled to Thailand from the civil war and are now being marketed for tourism). Their show villages can be criticized as a kind of “human zoo”. Responsible trekking providers, on the other hand, lead their participants to villages that are less frequented by tourist flows and have retained the traditional lifestyle even more. For this you should take more time and adjust something to the respective culture than just for a photo session.
Chiang Mai
  • Chiang Mai with its hundreds of smaller and larger Buddhist Temples in the northern Thai Lanna style (especially Wat Phra Singh, Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Chiang Man), the three-king monument, various museums, galleries, bazaars and overall a diverse urban flair.
  • Chiang Mai Zoo, one of the largest and most interesting zoological gardens in Thailand, and Chiang Mai Night Safari, a night zoo.
  • Royal Flora Rajapruek - Former site of an international garden show on the outskirts of Chiang Mai. The numerous pavilions on various topics have partly not been maintained since then, but the visit is still worthwhile because of the beautiful flower beds.
  • Wat Phra That Doi Suthep - famous pilgrimage temple on a mountain above Chiang Mai
  • Bhubing Palace - Winter palace of the Thai royal family in the mountains near Chiang Mai. Large gardens with a collection of countless types of roses.
Chiang Rai
The White Temple (Wat Rong Khun) near Chiang Rai
  • Wat Rong Khun - the "White Temple", approx. 12 km southwest of Chiang Rai, not a classic Thai Buddhist temple, but a project by the eccentric artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, which he has been pursuing since the end of the 20th century. His interpretation of Buddhist teaching is presented in fascinating and unusual ways, including: with a hell trench, pictures from western pop culture and numerous very filigree figures and ornaments.
  • more, more traditional temple in northern Thai style in Chiang Rai (including Wat Phra Kaeo)
  • Oub Kham Museum - somewhat “dusty”, but still very interesting museum in Chiang Rai, which collects impressive artefacts from the former royal courts of northern Thailand.
  • Chiang Saen Centuries ago it was one of the most important cities in what is now northern Thailand, then it was abandoned for a few decades and only later settled again, which is why the traces of earlier times can be read off the old city walls and temples.
  • The Golden triangle, the mountainous and forest-covered border area between Thailand, Laos and Myanmar, with its stories of hill tribes, opium cultivation and smuggling, warlords and secret service activities, is considered by many visitors to be a legendary and mysterious area. The immediate Tri-border area of the three states near Chiang Saen is not a historically or culturally significant place, but rather a tourist trap. But the two museums about the history of opium are interesting.
northern river valleys
Striding Buddha in front of Wat Phra That Khao Noi on a hill near Nan
  • Also Nan Especially worthwhile for lovers of northern Thai temple and old Buddhist wall paintings, but also Galleries modern artist.
lower northern Thailand
  • Ruined cities of Sukhothai, Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet with the dilapidated temples, Buddha statues, fortresses and palaces of bygone times, surrounded by well-tended parks. The largest and most impressive is the old town of Sukhothai, which was the capital of Siam in the 13th to 14th centuries.

activities

  • Zipline through the jungle Chiang Mai
  • Trekking through the mountains of northern Thailand, mostly combined with a visit to the villages of the so-called hill tribes, especially in the provinces of Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and Mae Hong Son
  • Bike tours and mountain biking
  • Kayak tours and white water rafting
  • various activities with elephants (washing elephants; elephants painting and making music, etc.) in the Thai Elephant Conservation Center in the province Lampang

kitchen

Khao Soi with Chicken - the most famous dish in northern Thai cuisine

The upper north has its very own cooking tradition, influenced by its neighbors Laos and Myanmar (and also not far from southern China), which is quite different from what you know from central and southern Thailand or even from Thai restaurants in Europe .

One of the most famous dishes that every visitor should try is Khao soi (Thai: ข้าวซอย, spoken: kaâo soi), a soup-like curry with yellow wheat noodles and typically chicken (but it is also possible with other meat or vegetarian), which can be garnished with crispy noodles and seasoned with shallots, lemon, sauerkraut and / or chili paste as desired. The best known is the variant of Chiang Mai, in other places and with the different ethnic groups there may be different recipes.

As in other parts of the country, and even more so than there, it is customary not to order one dish per person, but rather a large number of small portions, which you then share as a group. Among the best known of these "community dishes" are sâi ùa (grilled, spicy, coarse pork sausages), kääb mǔu (crispy fried pork skin), lâab Láan-naa (intensely seasoned, coarse minced meat, raw or fried), gkääng kää (Curry soup with pepper leaves, various herbs and vegetables as well as your choice of chicken, frog or snails). These are served either with regular steamed rice (as in central Thailand) or with sticky rice (as in Laos and northeastern Thailand). The latter can be eaten with the hands.

In the lower north, however, mostly the same dishes are served as in central Thailand - apart from certain local specialties.

nightlife

security

climate

The climate in the lower north hardly differs from that in the central region. In the upper north, on the other hand, it is regularly a few degrees cooler than in Bangkok, for example. In Chiang Mai the temperatures drop to 14 ° C in January, in Chiang Rai even to 12 ° C (heating is still not common).

In the following hot period (February – April), in the mountainous areas of northern Thailand, especially in the Chiang Mai area, there is heavy haze and even clouds of smoke and smog. The cause is the traditional burning of the fields at the beginning of the vegetation cycle, but also illegal slash and burn. Haze and smoke remain “trapped” in the basins, the mountain ranges prevent an exchange with clean air. At this phase, at Chiang Mai, Mae Hong Son and Pai airports, there may even be disabilities due to poor visibility. The hottest month is April with 35 ° C in Chiang Rai and 38 ° C in Mae Hong Son. Only the onset of the rainy season in May improves the air quality again. The rainy season peaks in August (over 20 rainy days) and ends in October. It is therefore most pleasant in October to January.

literature

  • Roland Dusik: In the realm of the hill tribes. In:In Asia, Vol.4 (July / August) (2011), Pp. 18–22 (German). - Excursion to the mountains in the north-west of Thailand.
  • Bernatzik: The spirits of the yellow leaves. At the Bertelsmann Lesering, 1962; 309 pages (German). - Research report by the Bernatziks on the visit to northern Thailand in search of a mysterious mountain people - the "spirits of the yellow leaves"
  • M.G. Schöneberg: Spirits of the yellow leaves. King of Fools Publishing, 2007, ISBN 978-3-940313-02-7 ; 358 pages (German). - Two scientists, who could hardly be more different, travel to Laos and northern Thailand as part of an ethno project. The book is a combination of travel literature and novels - full of contrasts, poetic and beautiful - and with an insight into the culture of Laos and Thailand.
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