Palenque - Palenque

Palenque
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The Mayan ruined city Palenque located in Chiapas and is not just any Mayan ruined city. Easily accessible and developed for tourism, this is fantastically located in the rainforest on a mountain slope. The architecture, which is uniquely beautiful even within the Maya world, and numerous well-preserved reliefs fit so well into the landscape that even a tour without any prior knowledge is a worthwhile compulsory program of a tour of Mexico. The city is the origin of numerous spectacular discoveries and legends. Renowned archaeologists like Nikolai pit or pseudo-scientists like Erich von Däniken Sources and clues for their theories.

Map of Palenque

background

Hieroglyph of the city of Palenque

The ruined city of Palenque and the place of the same name are located in the highlands of Chiapas on the Rio Usumacinta. The temple city is criss-crossed by a system of water channels over which the buildings were erected.

The rise and fall of a metropolis

King's succession in Palenque (this has not yet been fully determined)
  • U-Ch'ix-K'an (around 993 BC) probably fictional

(...)

  • K'uk Balam (431 AD to 435 AD)
  • Kasper (435 AD to 487 AD) real name unknown
  • Butz'aj Sak Chiik (487 AD to 501 AD)
  • Ahkal Mo 'Naahb I. (501 AD to 524 AD)
  • K'an Joy Chitam (529 AD to 565 AD)
  • Ahkal Mo 'Naab II (565 AD to 570 AD)
  • K'an Balam I. (572 AD to 583 AD)
  • Yohl Ik'nal (583 AD to 604 AD) first ruler
  • Aj Ne Ohl Mat (AD 605 to AD 612)
  • Sak-K'uk (612 AD to 615 AD) second ruler
  • K'inich Janaab 'Pakal I. (615 AD to 683 AD)
  • K'inich Kan Balam II (684 AD to 702 AD)
  • K'inich K'an Joy Chitam II (702 AD to 711 AD)
  • Xok (711 AD to 721 AD) governor from Toniná
  • K'inich Ahkal Mo 'Naab III. (AD 721 to AD 736)
  • K'inich Janaab Pakal II (around 742 AD)
  • K'inich Kan Balam III. (around 751 AD)
  • K'inich K'uk Balam II (764 AD to 783 AD)
  • Wak Kimi Janaab Pakal III. (Around 799 AD)

According to legend, it was already in 993 BC. The first ruler was born, but the earliest traces of settlement point to the 4th century BC. Chr. Little is known about the city's beginnings. But when King K'uk 'B'alam I entered the scene in 431 AD, the small settlement had already matured into a city. This first known king continued to call himself Lord of Toktan. A title that other early kings should also bear. Theories about this title point to another city under the rule of this dynasty or to the early-built Escondido group, which is about 2 km from the city center. By the way, the name of the old Palenque was Lakamha ’.

Now one king followed the other in unbroken row and Palenque rose to regional power that controlled the entire western area around the estuary of the Rio Usumacintas. This gave them control of one of the most important trade routes in the Maya region. In addition, much of the trade between central Mexico and the Maya region passed through the rulership. In order to secure this region from other great powers, an alliance was formed Tikal. But as this from Calakmul and Caracol 562 AD was defeated and occupied, there was no protecting power. And so it shouldn't take long until the year 599 Calakmul went to war against Palenque and destroyed the city. Twelve years later (611 AD) a second attack followed, which killed almost the entire upper class of Palenque. The blow was deep and the line of kings was interrupted.

It is now believed that the city was ruled by a queen Sak-K'uk 'for a few years until her then 12-year-old son K'inich Janaab' Pakal I was elevated to the throne in 615 AD. This achieved the impossible and stabilized the city as a regional power. However, some cities in the region had established their own sphere of influence over time. So kidnapped the city Piedras Negras 628 AD a nobleman from Palenque. But in the first place here is the allied with Calakmul Yaxchilan to call. Because this city attacked Palenque in 654 AD and inflicted a heavy defeat on it. But this did not affect the stability of the city. On the contrary, the city was even able to defeat that of the troops of Dos pilas out Tikal granting asylum to displaced King Nuun Ujol Chaak in AD 657. In the following years, K'inich Janaab 'Pakal I. ensured calm with targeted attacks on smaller allies of Calakmul and decisively expanded the city. The construction of large parts of the palace and the complete construction of the Templo Olvidado fall during the reign of the king. As the king's death loomed, the construction of the Temple of the Inscriptions began. In 683 AD he died and handed the scepter over to his son K'inich Kan Balam II, who completed the temple of the inscriptions and buried his father in it. He also had the group of crosses built, which are considered to be one of the most beautiful in the Maya world. Politically, the up-and-coming city could do 687 AD Toniná put in their place and their king killed. Again Palenque had gained power over the entire western part of the Maya world.

But just 10 years later Toniná regained strength and attacked Palenque in 692 and 696 AD. In 702, after the death of K'inich Kan Balam II, his brother K'inich K'an Joy Chitam II. Followed as the next king on the throne. In 711 Toniná was attacked again. And this time the troops managed to capture the King of Palenque. A governor named Xok was installed by Toniná, who prevented any succession of kings. It was not until the old king died in AD 721 that a new king named K'inich Ahkal Mo 'Naab' III was able to emerge from a branch line. to succeed to the throne. After that, the city began to decline rapidly, which so far could not be explained. The records are becoming sparse. In 742 AD, a Palenque king named K'inich Janaab 'Pakal II married a princess to a king in Copan. The last inscription with a calendar date is on a pottery shard and shows the date 799 AD. The last mention of Palenque is in Comalcalco and is dated to the year 814 AD. In the following years the city was completely abandoned.

New beginning and rediscovery

Excavations in Palenque

In 1564 the Dominicans settled about 9 km from the ruins and founded the settlement of Palenque. At the end of the 18th century they rediscovered the ruins and reported to the Spanish crown. This equipped an expedition, which made some drawings and recovered the first finds. In 1822 a report on this expedition was published. This report attracted attention, so Jean Frédéric Waldeck visited the ruins in 1832, who stayed in Palenque for several years and did research. He also laid the foundation for the enthusiasm of a large esoteric scene that continues to this day, as in his publications he attributed the construction of the city to all peoples such as Phoenicians or even the descendants of Atlantis, just not the Maya. But he encouraged other visitors to visit the facility, such as John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood in 1839, who made the first detailed drawings.

The first excavations did not begin until 1940, however, and spectacular finds reawakened international interest. In 1952 the burial chamber of K'inich Janaab 'Pakal I with a richly decorated grave slab was found in the Temple of Inscriptions. Further finds not only contributed important findings to archeology, but also made the site one of the most famous in the Maya world. The town of Palenque, for example, in 1957 in Max Frisch's novel Homo Faber, offers a setting for the plot.

But the esoteric scene also continued to make a name for itself. Connections to all high cultures in the world were forged or even Erich von Däniken put forward the theory that the grave slab of K'inich Janaab 'Pakal I does not represent him on the way to the realm of the dead, but as a spaceman in a rocket. This theory can be seen as clearly refuted on the basis of the symbolism and the characters. However, this theory is often still advocated by the leaders themselves in order to make the tour more exciting. Today the modern city has about 50,000 inhabitants and offers over a thousand hotel beds and a rich gastronomy. Unfortunately, the city's charm fell by the wayside. But the city is a good hub for visiting the numerous sights in the area.

Palenque is one of the cultural world heritage of UNESCO.

getting there

By plane

Palenque has its own small airport (identifier PQM). However, this is not regularly served by any airline and is therefore only of interest for self-flyers. The closest airport is in Villahermosa, and is another, albeit more distant, alternative Campeche. From here the road continues.

In the street

The main bus stations are located directly on the Juarez. From here, all major hotels in the city can be reached on foot, depending on your luggage. If you have an accommodation outside of the city, or you have too much luggage, you can still get a taxi.

The ADO bus station is about 100 meters into town from the roundabout with the Maya monument. From here there are connections with Campeche (4 times a day / 5 hours drive) over Champotón, Cancun (5 times a day / 13 hours drive), Merida (4 times a day / 8 hours drive), Mexico City (2 times a day / 14 hours drive), Oaxaca (Once a day / 15 hours drive), Ocosingo (Once a day / 3 hours drive), San Cristobal de las Casas (10 times a day / 6 hours drive), Tulum (5 times a day / 11 hours drive), Tuxtla Gutiérrez (10 times a day / 6 hours drive) and Villahermosa (12 times a day / 2 hours drive).

The bus station is also served by OCC and TRF, which have other 1st class and 2nd class offers.

The AEXA bus station is one block further into town and has a similar connection offer.

If you want to go along the Carretera Fronteriza in the direction of Guatemala, you have to rely on the transport of one of the many travel agencies in the city, unless you have your own car.

The Línea Comitán Lagos Montebello has specialized in a VAN liner service, drives along the Carreta Fronteriza and stops in Bonampak and the junction with Frontera Corozal.

You drive from here by car Villahermosa or from Chetumal and Campeche along Mex 186 and turn south at the town of Catazajá onto MEX 199 and follow the road for about 30 km to Palenque. Of San Cristobal de las Casas drive 11 km south and then turn onto the MEX 190 Ocosingo and reaches Palenque after about 200 km. In the past there were frequent raids on this route. This has improved significantly thanks to a strong military presence. But you should still inquire about the status beforehand and not drive at night. The same goes for those who want to drive along the Carreta Fronteriza.

By train

The train station is located near the airport at MEX 199, about 3 km from the city center. This has been closed for years as there are no more passenger trains to Palenque.

mobility

Outline map of the archaeological site

The ruins are about 9 km from the city center and can be easily reached from the city with a collectivo. Just go to the roundabout with the Maya monument and look out for minibuses with the destination "Ruinas". There are plenty of them and they are always looking for passengers. The journey takes a few minutes.

In the city and in the ruins, the best and sometimes only permissible means of transport is still the use of footwork.

Tourist Attractions

The highlight is of course the ruins. The facility is located in the rainforest and is only 5% excavated. That shouldn't deter you from visiting, as the palace alone is already full of highlights and the tour can take an hour. If you want to see everything, you should invest two days.

Skull motif at Templo XII
  • Templo de La CalaveraNr01.png - The Temple of the Skull or just called Templo XII is a small pyramid with a small temple on top. A figure of a skull can be found in the temple, which led to the naming. The pyramid is to be climbed. Next to the temple is a smaller, insignificant pyramid.
  • Templo XIIINr02.png - A burial chamber was found in this pyramid, which can also be entered. A small corridor leads to the interior in which several small chambers can be seen. A chamber with a sarcophagus is particularly interesting. The sarcophagus housed the tomb of the red queen (Tumba de la Reina Roja). In addition to the bones, a death mask and a thousand pieces of jade were found in the sarcophagus. Since the temple is next to the Temple of the Inscriptions, there are theories that the tomb of Queen Tz'akbu Ajaw, Mrs. K'inich Janaab Pakals I or the tomb of Mrs. Sak K'uk ', the mother Pakals can be seen here . Opposite is the overgrown Temple XI.
Templo de las Inscripciones and Templo XIII
  • Templo de las InscripcionesNr03.png - The Temple of the Inscriptions is right next to Templo XIII and is undoubtedly one of the most famous buildings in Palenque. This pyramid, about 21 meters high, was completed in 690 AD. The temple is now completely closed and can only be viewed from the outside (as of April 2016) In 1949, the Mexican archaeologist Alberto Ruz Lhuillier had a plate removed and discovered a shaft underneath. This was uncovered piece by piece and three years later discovered a burial chamber with a base area of ​​4 x 10 meters at the end of the shaft. In addition to skeletons, clay pots and stucco heads, a sarcophagus with the bones of K'inich Janaab Pakals I was found here. This wore a mask made of jade and the grave slab is adorned with a huge relief, which shows the king on his way to the realm of the dead. The temple and the burial chamber are currently (as of 2011) not accessible. A complete copy of the tomb is in the archaeological museum in Mexico City to see. Incidentally, Alberto Ruz Lhuillier decreed that he should be buried as close as possible to his greatest discovery and so his grave is at the foot of the pyramid.
In the palace in the east courtyard
  • El PalacioNr04.png - The palace with the four-story tower is not without good reason the most famous building and, if you will, the figurehead of Palenque. With a footprint of 80 x 100 meters, it is the largest building and has been revised several times or partially built over. The foundation stone was created as early as the fifth century AD. At that time a three meter high platform was built on which some smaller buildings were erected. Over the years the facility has been expanded again and again. The palace made the biggest step under K'inich Janaab Pakals I in the 7th century AD. As the last extension, the tower was opened in the 8th century AD under K'inich K'uk Balam II Ten meter height raised platform added. One usually enters the palace via a staircase on the west side of the Palace of the Inscriptions. Here you can already see the first reliefs of Pakal I. The west staircase leads to what appears to be a labyrinth of corridors. Interesting are the T-shaped openings, which were part of a sophisticated ventilation system, and the large cloverleaf-like niches in the vault, which were added or, better, removed, for reasons of statics. Here, too, there are well-preserved remains of stucco work in the corridors. Even paint residues can still be seen here and there, so that you get a good impression of the original appearance. Inside there are a total of four courtyards, which are lined with numerous buildings.
Stucco by K'inich Janaab Pakals I in the palace

Particularly noteworthy is the east courtyard. It still contains numerous well-preserved or restored reliefs, including depictions of prisoners of war that are intentionally depicted anatomically distorted, or a small hyroglyphic staircase. The most famous highlight of the palace, however, is the tower. This stands on a four-meter-high base with a floor plan of about seven by seven meters and rises three floors. Inside there are narrow stairs that lead to the top floor, on which there is a small altar. In 1955 the tower was restored and the current roof was put on it. It is unclear whether the tower really had a roof, and if so, what it looked like. When the city was rediscovered, the tower had no roof. What is certain, however, is that the tower also had an astronomical function. At the equinox, seen from the Temple of the Inscriptions, the sun rises just above the altar in the tower. By the way, if you look closely, you will notice a slight slope in the tower. This could have been inserted during construction for correction reasons to ensure the astronomical function. The tower cannot be climbed. In the southern area of ​​the palace there are sweat baths and toilets that are connected to the underground sewer system. The underground vaults are accessible from the south side. Due to the pleasant air conditioning, these were used, among other things, as a bedroom. What is particularly interesting here is that the walls were plastered with a mixture of shell fragments. They reflect the little light that falls into the vault and thus ensure better illumination.

Templo del Sol
  • Group de las Cruzes - The cross group with Templo del Sol, Templo de la Cruz and Templo de la Cruz Foliada is one of the most beautiful architectural works in the Maya world. At the end of the 7th century, this group was established by K'inich Kan Balam II. This was dedicated to the three main gods of the city. The group was called the cross group because of the large cross representations in the three temples on the pyramids. It is now known that the cross is a Ceiba tree representation that represents the universe of Mayan mythology. The group essentially consists of three pyramids of different sizes, which are grouped around a small plaza. There is a small platform in the plaza.
* In the west is on the smallest platform of the Templo del SolNr05.png. This is in very good condition. Among other things, the roof ridge is one of the most complete in Palenque. Remnants of rich stucco depicting various people and glyphs can be seen on the outer facade. Inside the temple there is a large, well-preserved wall relief made of three large plates which shows the sun with two crossed lances as a central element. This is flanked by two people who show both K'inich Kan Balam II and K'inich Janaab Pakals I.
* In the east is on a central pyramid the Templo de la Cruz FoliadaNr06.png. This is constructed in the same way as the other two temples in the group of crosses. The pyramid has not yet been exposed, but the temple on the top can be reached via an artificial staircase. Unfortunately, the roof ridge has been badly damaged and the front facade is completely missing. But that gives a good insight into the architectural structure of the temple buildings. Here, too, there is a large three-part relief in the back room. This is very similar to the relief in the Templo del Sol. Here, too, K'inich Kan Balam II. And K'inich Janaab Pakals I (the smaller representation) line a mythological representation. But this time there is a representation of the corn god in the center.
Templo del la Cruz
* In the north is on the largest pyramid of the Templo de la CruzNr07.png. This was completed in 692 AD and has a temple on top, the facade of which is also badly damaged. But the roof ridge is in relatively good condition and there is also a large three-part relief on the back wall. This shows the representation of the mythological world tree, which was previously interpreted as a cross, on whose top the deity Itzamnaaj sits in the shape of a bird. This representation is flanked on the left by the somewhat small K'inich Janaab Pakals I and the much larger K'inich Kan Balam II, to whom Itzamnaaj turns directly. From the pyramid you have a good view of the palace and the Temple of the Inscriptions and is therefore also a popular spot for photographers.
  • Acrópolis Sur - As the name suggests, the southern acropolis is located south of the group of crosses and probably formed a unit with it. Large parts of the Acropolis are currently closed for excavations, but a designated area is accessible. There are numerous temples on the Acropolis, in which some sensational finds have already been made. Would be here Templo XVIINr08.pngin which a relief plaque was found depicting a prisoner in AD 687 Toniná shows who is brought before King K'inich Kan Balam. Here you can see a copy, the original is in the museum in Palenque. You can also find the Templo XIXNr09.png in which a hyroglyphic writing was found on a bench, which essentially based on the creation mythology of the Maya, the enthronement of King K'inich Ahka Mo 'Naab III. describes in AD 721. A copy can also be seen here. More temples are Templo XXNr10.png from the year 540 AD which contained a grave of an unknown person and Templo XXINr11.png in which a throne was found with fine stone carvings depicting Ahkal Mo 'Nahb' and some of his ancestors.
Ball playground and in the background other temples of the Grupo Norte
  • Grupo Norte - This essentially consists of the ball playgroundNr12.pngwho acted as Grupo NorteNr13.png well-known small group of temples from the years 695 to 730 AD, the Temple X and the Templo del CondeNr14.png from the year 647 AD. Count von Waldeck lived here from 1831 AD. for two years during his investigations. There are remains of stucco and glyphs on two pillars.
  • Group CNr15.png - Here there are some plazas that are surrounded by various buildings. Most of these date from the late 8th century. The excavations are still going on here.
  • Grupo MurciélagosNr16.png - A group of bats is a collection of buildings located in the north of the complex on small platforms around the watercourses. Numerous everyday objects of high quality as well as jade and other valuables have been found here. Therefore, one assumes residential areas of the upper class here.
  • Group 1 & 2Nr17.png - West of the bat group are these two former residential areas from the 8th century. The major part has not yet been exposed, but that is precisely what gives these assemblies the flair.
  • Water channels - The area is criss-crossed with numerous canals naturally fed by water. These were created artificially and were the basis for a long time guarantee of hygiene and consistently good harvests. At the end of the city these flow together and over some beautiful waterfalls through the rainforest into the valley. A beautifully laid out hiking trail leads along this path to the museum.
  • Museo de SitioNr18.png - If many museums right next to Mayan ruins are more of a temporary storage facility for finds on the way to larger museums, here is a museum that is really one of the highlights of the site. There are numerous original or copies of finds to be seen here. These include masks, relief plates and numerous vessels. The highlight is certainly the replica of the sarcophagus of K'inich Janaab Pakals I in an air-conditioned room. Everything is explained in Spanish and English. A cafeteria and handicraft shop follow.
Museo de Sitio, KM 7 Carreta Palenque Ruinas, Palenque, México. Tel.: 52 348 9331. Open: Tue-Sun 9:00 a.m. - 4:30 p.m.Price: Free entry.
Parque Central in Palenque
  • The city of Palenque - The city is certainly not one of the main local attractions, but it is much better than its reputation. Often it is only dismissed in travel guides as a necessary place to stay, but there are some nice corners here. Especially the area around the Parque Central with the church and the Casa de la Cultura invite you to linger. There are a few cafes and restaurants around the square, but they are not among the best in Palenque. From here the one kilometer long Juarez leads west to the intersection with the large Maya statue (Glorieta de la Cabeza Maya). This street also forms the lifeline with bus stations and shops.
  • Misol-Ha - If you drive the Highway 199 for 20 km in the direction of Oscosingo you will reach a signposted junction which after 1.5 km brings you to a small basin surrounded by the rainforest. The Misol-Ha waterfall plunges into this 35 meters deep. Bathing is allowed here as long as the pool is not overcrowded due to too much rain. A path leads into a cave behind the waterfall. Here you get another impression of the cases. The entrance fee is 10 Mex $ and it is also possible to stay here overnight. As an alternative to self-drive, almost every tour operator in Palenque offers a day trip to Misol-ha and Agua Azul.
The Cataratas de Agua Azul
  • Agua Azul - If you take Highway 199 towards Oscosingo, there is a junction to the Agua Azul waterfalls 60 km away. After a 4.5 km drive on a paved road you reach it but cross two ejidos, where you can pay 10 Mex $ per person. At the waterfalls there are parking spaces from which a paved path leads up along the waterfalls. The waterfalls are breathtaking as white foamed water plunges into turquoise blue pools on several levels. Only in the rainy season are these pools more brown than blue. Bathing is possible here, but not without danger. Depending on the time of year, the current can be extremely strong and there are stones and tree trunks under the water. At the waterfall there are numerous small stalls selling souvenirs and small snacks. In recent years, the waterfalls have been a popular target for robberies, but since the military has shown a strong presence here, it has calmed down and almost all travel companies return to the destination (as of 2011). Nevertheless, one should find out about the situation before visiting. The waterfalls are very overcrowded on weekends, so it is better to visit them on weekdays. Agua Azul can also be reached by bus with Aexa. However, you get off at the junction and have another 4.5 km to walk. Alternatively, almost every tour operator in Palenque offers a day trip to Misol-ha and Agua Azul.

activities

Hiking trail from Grupo Norte to the museum
  • Discover - Of course that is why most of the visitors come to Palenque. The ruins are among the most beautiful in the Maya world and are therefore highly frequented. If you want to avoid it, come early in the morning. The minimal route runs from the entrance to Temple XII & XIII and the Temple of the Inscriptions. From here you can climb the palace via the west stairs. and leaves this again in the direction of the cross group, which is the next destination on the program. From here it goes past the northern group on a picturesque hiking trail to the museum. At the entrance there are numerous guides who offer their services. Unfortunately, these do not have the best reputation, which has at least been confirmed in one proven case. Here an Indian origin was shown, Nikolai Grube declared incompetent, Rio Bec to Guatemala relocated and even after a long discussion the guide was still sure that Comalcalco had nothing to do with the Maya, but is clearly a one hundred percent Olmec site. There are certainly a number of well-trained guides here too, but you should ask about your qualifications as best you can in a preliminary discussion.
  • hike - At least the hike from Grupo Norte to the museum is standard. But Palenque can do even more. In addition to the tour over the ruins, the guides also offer hikes of various lengths through the rainforest. Palenque is particularly known for the large number of howler monkeys and the extensive bird life. But here too, or rather especially here, the following applies: The early bird catches the worm.
  • Shopping - Palenque is considered a tourist hub in the north Chiapas. Therefore, in addition to an abundant range of hotels and restaurants, there are above all good shopping opportunities for handicrafts, souvenirs and products for daily needs or for excursions.
  • Swimming - It is mostly hot here and the nearest Caribbean beach is far away. But there are some alternatives in Palenque. You can swim in the Rio Chacamax for a small fee at the Nututun Palenque Hotel (see accommodation) (hotel guests have free access). Other possibilities can be found in Misol-Ha.

shop

Palenque is the tourist hub in the north Chiapas. Therefore, in addition to an abundant range of hotels and restaurants, there are above all good shopping opportunities for handicrafts, souvenirs and products for daily needs or for excursions.

Souvenir sales in Palenque

In front of the entrance, local Maya offer drinks and fruit, as well as handicrafts or kitsch at reasonable prices. Since it is very hot and humid here, it is essential to stock up on enough water beforehand. (As of April 2016)

In the city, the main shopping opportunities line up on the Juárez. From clothing to pharmacies to electrical goods, there is a suitable shop for every need. However, these are each small shops with a limited range, so that only basic needs are covered. It looks different in the souvenir area. Hier gibt es um den Parque Central zahlreiche Souvenir-Geschäfte, die deutlich preiswerter sind als die Händler in der Ruinenanlage aber in der Regel nur klassische Souvenirs und keine Handwerkskunst anbieten. Wer das besondere sucht und bereit ist etwas mehr auszugeben, der sollte noch einmal in der nordwestlich von der Juárez liegenden Cañada schauen. Hier gibt es einen Kunsthandwerksladen von hoher Qualität und ein Café welches mit gutem Kaffee aus der Region handelt.

kitchen

Imbiss in Palenque

Um den Parque Central gibt es zahlreiche Restaurants und Cafés auf Touristenjagd. Das Preisleistungsverhältnis ist aber nicht immer optimal. Wer auf die Lage verzichten kann, der sollte sich ein paar Meter (die reichen zumeist schon) vom Park entfernen und wird belohnt werden. Natürlich gibt es auch hier zahlreiche Garagen-Restaurants, die im Imbissstil auf einem kleinen Herd manchmal Erstaunliches für sehr wenig Geld zaubern. Wer bereit ist auf Luxus zu verzichten, sollte dies unbedingt ausprobieren. Hier gilt die einfache Regel, da wo die Einheimischen hingehen, da ist es gut. Da wo keiner oder nur Touristen sind, da ist es nicht so gut.

Doch es gibt hier auch zahlreiche gute Restaurants, die hauptsächlich von Touristen aufgesucht werden. Ein paar Restaurants von hoher Qualität mit schönen Terrassen findet man an der Cañada. Diese bieten internationale Küche angereichert mit regionalen Produkten. Eine gute Cocktail-Karte ist selbstverständlich. Die Preise für Hauptgerichte beginnen hier bei etwa 100 Mex $.

Weitere gute Möglichkeiten gibt es in den Seitenstraßen rund um die Juárez:

  • Restaurant Las Tinajas, An der Ecke Absolo mit der 20 de Noviembre. Tel.: 52 345-4970. Regionale hausgemachte Gerichte. Gute Qualität und große Portionen. Mittlerweile gibt es mehrere Filialen im Ort.Geöffnet: 7 bis 23 Uhr.Preis: Hauptgerichte beginnen hier bei 70 Mex $.
  • Café de Yara, Hidalgo 66. Tel.: 52 345-0269. Einer der besten Orte für ein Frühstück. Guten Bio-Kaffee gibt es dazu. Abends gibt es gelegentlich auch Live-Musik.Geöffnet: 7 bis 23 Uhr.Preis: Hauptgerichte beginnen hier bei 70 Mex $.

Doch auch außerhalb der Stadt gerade in Richtung Ruinen-Anlage gibt es einige Restaurants.

  • La Selva, Highway 199 (Am Weg zu den Ruinen etwa 100 Meter südlich vom Kreisverkehr mit Maya-Denkmal entfernt). Tel.: 52 345 - 0363. Restaurant von hohem Standard und Qualität mit romantischer Einrichtung. Hier gibt es Steaks und Meeresfrüchte. Hier lässt sich wunderbar in tropischer Atmosphäre der Abend ausklingen.Geöffnet: 11:30 bis 23:30 Uhr.

nightlife

Das Nachtleben in Palenque beschränkt sich häufig auf Cocktails nach dem Essen, da viele Touristen von dem Erlebten entweder müde sind oder früh wieder aufstehen wollen. Ein paar Ausnahmen gibt es hier und diese sind im Wesentlichen auf dem Weg zu den Ruinen zu finden:

  • El Tapanco, Juárez 65C. Tel.: 52 345-0415. Freitags und Samstags Livemusik. Für hungrige Gäste gibt es Pizza.
  • La Palapa, Carretera Palenque Ruinas KM5. Ab 18:00 Uhr gibt es Open Air Kino. Anschließend gibt es Musik mit wechselnden DJs. Es wird getanzt, doch wer ein wenig ausruhen will, für den stehen Sofas bereit.Geöffnet: von 18:00 bis 04:00 Uhr morgens.Preis: 10 Mex $.

accommodation

Obwohl Palenque sicherlich nicht zu den größten Orten in Mexiko zählt und sich nicht mit den Touristen-Hochburgen wie Playa del Carmen or Cancun vergleichen kann, hat die Stadt doch ein recht großes Angebot an Betten. Prinzipiell gibt es drei verschiedene Areale mit Übernachtungsmöglichkeiten:

  • In der Stadt – Hier gibt es natürlich die beste Infrastruktur, und die Busbahnhöfe sind nicht weit entfernt.
  • La Cañada – Alles ist ein bisschen ruhiger und grüner, so dass sich hier ein gewisses Dschungel-Feeling einstellt.
    • Hotel Maya Tulipanes (Cañada 6). Tel.: 52 345-0201, Fax: 52 345-1004, Email: . Sehr gutes Hotel mit gepflegtem Pool und eigenem Restaurant. Auch bei Reisegruppen beliebt. In der Eingangshalle hängt eine sehr gute Kopie eines Reliefs aus der Kreuzgruppe.Preis: DZ Ab 1300 Mex$.
  • Zu den Ruinen – Hier liegen die meisten Unterkünfte schon direkt im Regenwald. Morgens wird man von Brüllaffen geweckt und kann schon beim Frühstück Vogelbeobachtung betreiben.
    • Nututun Palenque Hotel, Carretera Palenque Oscosingo km3,5. Tel.: 52 345 0100, Fax: 52 345 0620. Die Anlage liegt in einem tropischen Garten. Besonders anzumerken sind schöne Pool und die eigene Badestelle am Rio Chacamax.Preis: DZ 800 Mex$.
    • Centro Turístico Ejidal Cascada de Misol-Ha. Tel.: 52 55-5329-0995. In der Nähe der Wasserfälle von Misol-Ha stehen Holzhütten mit Bad und Moskitonetz. Ein Restaurant gibt es hier auch.Preis: DZ 300 Mex$.

health

Es gibt hier Giftschlangen, daher ist allzu sorgloses Herumlaufen nicht angebracht. Doch angesichts der Tatsache, dass der Mensch nicht auf der Speisekarte dieser Tiere steht, sollte ein dem Regenwald entsprechendes vorsichtiges Verhalten und angemessene Kleidung genügend Schutz garantieren. Das "Gefährlichste" sind hier fast schon die Moskitos, daher sollte auf Mückenschutz nicht verzichtet werden. Dem von Moskitos vereinzelt übertragenen Dengue-Fieber kann nicht durch eine Impfung vorgebeugt werden. Anderen Krankheiten kann aber vorgebeugt werden:

  • Eine Malaria-Prophylaxe sollte zumindest für den Notfall mitgeführt werden.
  • Eine Typhus-Impfung sollte vorher durchgeführt werden.
  • Die Hepatitis A-, B-, Tetanus- und Tollwutimpfungen sollten aufgefrischt sein.

Die örtliche Klinik liegt an der Velasco Suárez 33 und ist telefonisch über 345-0273 zu erreichen

Practical advice

Die Ausgrabungen sind täglich von 8 bis 17 Uhr geöffnet. Eintritt beträgt 70 Pesos.

Es ist schwülwarm in Palenque, daher sollte jederzeit an eine ausreichende Wasserversorgung gedacht werden. Zumal gerade das Besteigen der Pyramiden eine anstrengende Angelegenheit sein kann. Dafür ist auch unbedingt festes Schuhwerk mitzunehmen. Die Luft ist dort sehr feucht. Deswegen ist es unbedingt zu raten, dünne und wegen der Moskitos langärmlige Kleidung zu tragen.

Palenque selber kann als sicher angesehen werden. Vielleicht sollte man in Menschenaufläufen gerade an den sehr kleinen Busbahnhöfen ein wenig mehr Augenmerk auf sein Gepäck legen. In der Umgebung in Richtung Yaxchilán und Agua Azul hat es früher viele Raubüberfälle gegeben die unter anderem den Zapatisten zugeschoben werden die sich hier in den Regenwald zurückgezogen haben. In den letzten Jahren hat das Militär starke Präsenz gezeigt und die Lage nicht beruhigt. Kein Reiseunternehmen bieten diese Route wegen wiederholter Überfälle noch an (Stand 4/2016).

Die Post befindet sich in der nähe am Park an der Independencia und hat montags bis freitags von 09:00 bis 18:00 Uhr geöffnet. Samstags schließt diese schon um 13:00 Uhr.

trips

In der Region bieten sich folgende Reiseziele:
Yaxchilán Templo Mayor.JPG
Yaxchilán - Liegt in traumhafter Lage direkt am Usumacinta-Fluss. Die Anfahrt erfolgt teilweise mit dem Boot und bietet dabei die Möglichkeit für einen Zwischenstopp in Bonampak im Lacondonen Reservat.
Cristobal-kath.jpg
San Cristóbal de las Casas - Gilt hier immer noch als regionale Hauptstadt der Maya. Berühmt für das bunte Treiben auf dem Markt
Toniná Pyramid 1.jpg
Toniná - Burgartige und auf Terrassen aufgebaute Ruine der ehemaligen Maya-Metropole, die letztendlich den regionalen Machtkampf in der späten Klassik gegen Palenque für sich entscheiden konnte.

literature

  • Maya. Gottkönige im Regenwald von Nikolai Grube erschienen im Könemann-Verlag, Köln 2000. ISBN 3-829-01564-X .
  • A Forest of Kings: The Untold Story of the Ancient Maya von David Freidel und Linda Schele erschienen bei William Morrow Paperbacks. ISBN 0688112048 , ISBN 978-0688112042

Web links

Palenque auf den Webseiten des INAH (span.)

Die Mayaruinen
GuatemalaAguateca·Cival·Dos Pilas·El ChalEl Mirador·El Peru·El Zotz·Ixkun·Iximché·Ixlú·Kaminaljuyú·La Corona·Machaquilá.Mixco Viejo·Nakbé·Nakum·Naranjo·Piedras Negras·Quiriguá·Rio Azul.San Bartolo·Seibal·Takalik Abaj·Tayasal·Tikal·Topoxté·Uaxactún·Ucanal·Utatlán·Yaxha·Zaculeu
BelizeAltun Ha·Buenavista del Cayo·Cahal Pech·Caracol·Cerros·Chan Chich.Chau Hiix.Cuello·El Pilar·La Milpa·Lamanai·Louisville.Lubaantun·Nim Li Punit·Nohmul·Pacbitún·Pook’s Hill·Pusilhá·San Estevan·Santa Rita·Sarteneja·Shipstern·Uxbenká·Uxbentun·Wild Cane Caye·Xnaheb·Xunantunich
MexicoAcanmul·Acanceh·Aké·Balamkú·Becán·Bonampak·Calakmul·Chac II·Chacchoben·Chacmultun· Chacalal·Chicanná·Chichén Itzá·Chinkultic·Chunhuhub·Chunlimón·Cobá·Comalcalco·Cuca·Culubá·Dsibiltún·Dzibanche·Dzibilchaltún·Dzibilnocac·Edzná·Ek Balam·El Meco·El Tigre·El Rey·Hochob·Hormiguero·Huntichmul·Huntichmul II·Izamal·Jaina·Kabah·Kinichna.Kiuic·Kohunlich·Labná·Lagartero·La Reforma·Malpasito·Maní·Mayapán·Mul Chic·Muyil·Nadz Caan·Nocuchich·Nohpat·Oxkintoc·Oxtankah·Palenque·Pechal·Plan de Ayutla·Pomoná·Rio Bec·Sabana Piletas·Santa Rosa Xtampak·Sayil·Tabasqueño·Tancah·Tenam Puente·Tohcok·Toniná·Tulum·Uxmal·Witzinah·Xaman-Ha·Xbalché·Xburrotunich·Xcalumkin·Xcambo·Xcaret·Xel Há·Xhaxché·Xlabpak·Xkichmook·Xkipché·Xpuhil·Yaxchilán·Yaxuná
El SalvadorCasa Blanca·Cara Sucia·Cihuatán·Ciudad Vieja·Gruta Del Espiritu Santo·Joya de Cerén·Las Marias·San Andrés (El Salvador)·Tazumal
HondurasCopán·Los Higos·Los Naranjos·Rio Amarillo·Travesia
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