Calakmul - Calakmul

Calakmul
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Calakmul is a ruin site in Campeche (State) in Mexico in the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve. The old Mayan city has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002, and the protected area was expanded again in 2014. On March 30, 2015, the memorial was included in the International Register of Cultural Property under the special protection of the Hague Convention for the Protection of Cultural Property in the Event of Armed Conflict.

Map of Calakmul

background

Hieroglyph of the city of Calakmul

The archaeological site

Calakmul Biosphere Reserve overview

Calakmul was a mega-metropolis. In addition to the actual inner city area, over 20 other centers have been found so far. But the city was not just made up of centers. A region of 70 km² could be identified as an urban area with large housing estates, agricultural areas and ceremonial centers. In the heyday of the late classical period, a population of 50,000 to 70,000 is assumed only in the city center. It is estimated that there will be up to 1.2 million inhabitants in the entire urban area. There are over 6000 structures here and the number of steles is still being revised upwards and is approaching 200. The historical name of the city is now known. This was "Chan" (chan) and meant snake. In keeping with this, a snake's head was found in the city's hieroglyph. And who is surprised: No hieroglyph in the entire Maya world (not even that of Tikal) is more common than that of Calakmul (Chan). The name Calakmul means something like "the city of the two neighboring pyramids" and was given by the first explorers on the basis of structures I and II.

The complex was discovered in 1931 and has been digging and restoring here ever since. Today the city is embedded in the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve and UNESCO World Heritage and can truly be described as an insider tip with a daily average of well under 100 visitors.

Pre-Columbian history

The early phase (until A.D. 529)

Presumably this place was already settled during the pre-classical period. A direct road link between Calakmul and El Mirador indicates that these two cities are networked. As is known, El Mirador was abandoned in the 2nd century AD. So that one can also assume that parts of the population maybe even the upper class fled to Calakmul and thus ensured the upswing of the city. The first record can be found on a stele and indicates the enthronement of a king around AD 411. In 514 AD the city was ruled by a non-noble ruler. Although there is no inscription for the next hundred years, there is further growth and increasing influence on the region of the city. So are in Quintana Roo in Dzibanche prisoners tied up on a hieroglyphic staircase in connection with King Yuknoom Che'en I from Calakmul. These glyphs are dated to the 5th century. Another similar entry from the Dzibanche region is dated to AD 529.

Rise to great power (529 AD to 686 AD)

King's succession in Calakmul (this has not yet been fully determined)
  • Yuknoom Ch'een I?
  • Tuun K'ab 'Hix (around 520 AD to 546 AD)
  • Heaven's Witness (about AD 561 to AD 572)
  • First ax bearer (572 AD to 579 AD)
  • Uneh Chan (579 AD to about 611 AD)
  • Yuknoom Chan (around 619 AD)
  • Tajoom Uk'ab 'K'ak' (622 AD to 630 AD)
  • Yuknoom head (A.D. 630 to A.D. 636)
  • Yuknoom Ch'een II (636 AD to 686 AD)
  • Yuknoom Yich'aak K'ak '(686 AD to 695 AD)
  • Split earth (AD 695 to?)
  • Yuknoom Took 'K'awiil (about AD 702 to AD 731)
  • Wamaw K'awiil (around 736 AD)
  • Ruler Y (around 741 AD)
  • Ruler Z (around 751 AD)
  • B'olon K'awiil (about AD 771 to AD 789)
  • Chan Pet (around 849 AD)
  • Aj Took '(around 909 AD)

In the following years numerous alliances were forged. So they allied with in 537 Yaxchilan and in 546 with Naranjo. With Caracol could be allied in the year 556 AD and thus secured the support of one of the largest cities. This increasingly isolated the mighty Tikal. In addition, Calakmul probably had (the facts are not documented) 530 AD with Rio Azul one of Tikal's main food suppliers destroyed. Weakened in this way, Tikal could not offer long resistance and was finally defeated by Caracol under the leadership of the King of Calakmul "Heaven's Witness" in 562 AD. No new building was built in Tikal for the next 130 years and the city was under the Calakmul alliance. After the death of "Heavenly Witness", "First Ax Bearer" succeeded him to the royal throne. However, this had to give way to King Uneh Chan six years later. This soon took an aggressive course against the remaining larger non-allied Maya cities. So was in 599 and 611 Palenque devastated and thus the western trade routes were also in the hands of Calakmul. After the death of Uneh Chan, the successors Yuknoom Chan and Yuknoom Kopf were concerned with maintaining power, so in 626 and 631 there was an uprising in the Mayan city Naranjo dejected. In 636 Yuknoom Che'en II came to power. Under him, Calakmul would finally experience the height of power and urban development. Emigrants from Tikal now had the city Dos pilas and thus brought an important trade route back under the control of Tikal with the Pasión River. Yuknoom Che'en II took military action against Dos Pilas in AD 648 and was victorious all along the line. But instead of killing the king B'alaj Chan K'awiil of Dos Pilas, he could be won over for Calakmul and was now reinstated as a follower of Calakmul. In the year 657 AD, as is well known, he attacked Tikal with the support of Calakmul and, in turn, won and was able to appoint his own king here. But in 672 Tikal was able to free himself and strike back and drive B'alaj Chan K'awiil into exile. But five years later it was the troops of Calakmul who recaptured Dos Pilas and another two years later, together with Dos Pilas, defeated Tikal again. Another uprising and subsequent conflict between Naranjo and Caracol Yuknoom forced Che'en II to intervene again through Calakmul in this region. As a result, B'alaj Chan K'awiil of Dos Pilas introduced a new dynasty in Naranjo. When Yuknoom Che'en II died in 686 AD, almost all important trade routes were under the control of Calakmul, the great enemy Tikal wedged motionless between cities allied with Calakmul Dos pilas, Naranjo or El Zotz and almost every major city between Tabasco or. Yucatan and Honduras or. El Salvador allied with Calakmul.

The decline (686 AD to 10th century AD)

Yuknoom Took 'K'awiil

In the same year Yuknoom Yich'aak K'ak 'succeeded the dead king on the throne of Calakmul. Nobody could have guessed what would follow only nine years later. The trigger is often seen as Queen Wak Chanil Ajaw of Naranjo, who, since the introduction of her five-year-old son, has been unconditionally waging war with all neighboring cities to expand her sphere of influence. In the year 695 AD, they took aim at the resurgent Tikal and captured aristocratic citizens. Tikal responded promptly, but did not attack Naranjo, but the powerful ally Calakmul. They suffered a catastrophic defeat. It was not until the 730s that Calakmul had recovered from the defeat and, under Yuknoom Took 'K'awiil, demanded and got the loyalty of former allies. But in this recovery process, Calakmul was attacked again around 735 AD by Tikal and defeated. A depiction of the shackled Yuknoom Took 'K'awiil can be found in Tikal. But Calakmul was still able to defend himself indirectly. So could an alliance of troops from Calakmul and Quiriguá that allied with Tikal Copan hit in Honduras in 738 AD. From 741 AD new steles were built in Calakmul, while Tikal attacked one ally after the other, defeating them and thus narrowing Calakmul's room for maneuver more and more. On the important historical date of 830 AD, no new structures were erected in Calakmul for the first time. In 849 AD are found in Seibal references to a king in Calakmul and in 909 AD the last stele is erected. After that, the city's history sinks into darkness and the city was probably completely abandoned a few years later. The reason for the rapid decline cannot be seen solely in the difficult military and diplomatic situation. Of course, the city had lost access to almost all essential trade routes, but the city was able to supply large parts of the population on its own. Theories range from periods of drought and crop failures to an undisclosed final siege and destruction of the city by Tikal.

Calakmul Biosphere Reserve

Butterfly in Calakmul

In 1989 the region around the archaeological site was declared the Reserva de la Biosfera de Calakmul. The reserve borders the state to the east Quintana Roo and in the south Guatemala and comprises the largest contiguous piece of rainforest in all of Mexico. The over 70 km² large reserve represents over 12% of the total rainforest area of ​​all of Mexico and has 15% of the area of ​​the state of Campeche (State). In 1993 the reserve was integrated into UNESCO's international programs.

Kahnbeak in Calakmul

Particularly interesting for biologists because species from three different regions coexist here, as here the dry Yucatán climate changes into the typical humid rainforest climate in Peten. There are 86 mammals here, 18 of which are threatened with extinction. Five of the six big cats can be found here, including the jaguar and the puma. It looks similar in the bird world. So far, 358 different bird species have been counted, 113 of which are on the red list. Crested eagles, peacock turkeys and toucans can be found here. There are also 75 species of reptiles, 18 species of amphibians, 31 species of fish and no fewer than 380 species of butterflies. The flora offers over 1,500 different species, of which there are over 70 species of orchids alone.

getting there

By plane

The nearest international airports can be found in Campeche or Chetumal. From here it continues on the road.

In the street

By car you follow the Mex 180 (Aus Campeche coming) in the direction Champotón. At Escárcega, change to Mex 186 in the direction of Chetumal. At Conhuás after approx. 90 km you leave the road in a southbound direction and after another 65 km you reach Calakmul.

There is no regular bus connection, but there are some organizers in Campechewho offer organized tours to Calakmul, e.g .:

  • Edzná Operadora Turística & DMC, Av 16 de Septiembre No.128 Entre 59 Y 61, Campeche, Mexico. Tel.: 52 981 816 54 52, Email: .

If you still want to take the bus trip, you definitely have to stay here, as the journey is a bit of a hassle. Of Campeche it is best to take the ADO bus to the south (e.g. to Palenque and rises in Escárcega to get on a regional bus towards Xpujil. Depending on where you stay overnight, you should take this bus to e.g. Conhuas leave (about an hour's drive). This stop is on Mex 186 near the junction into the Calakmul Reserve. From here it is another 60 km to the ruins. If you want to go to the ruins immediately, you need a taxi from Xpujil.

By boat

Cruise ships that like in ports Playa del Carmen, Cancun or Progreso create, do not offer a direct connection here. If the shore leave allows it, you have to settle for at least two nights in order to take a self-organized tour to Calakmul.

mobility

Footpaths in Calakmul

The reserve is huge. Self-drivers with rental cars are best positioned here. From the entrance gate to the reserve to the ruins of the center you drive about 60 km on a tarred country road. There is no bus or shared taxi here. Unfortunately, neither the guides nor the few hotels are really prepared for a transport or shuttle service. The guides, who can be rented in the village, are excellently trained, but mostly not motorized. The only alternative here is to call a taxi. But this is quite affordable. A taxi with a driver costs around € 45.00 for one day (this also waits for you). If you wish, he will appear at dawn and also get a guide from the village. So you can like wildlife viewing, the center and possibly one of the surrounding Mayan sites Balamku visit.

The ruins in the center can be explored on foot. The main sights are connected by well-developed footpaths. You can drive to the entrance, where there is a small parking lot. A large visitor center has been set up approx. 20km in front of the ruins. The plan is that visitors are only allowed to drive as far as here, and from here they are brought to the ruins in groups. The aim is to further reduce the burden on the reserve from tourists. But there are competence disputes between the local and regional authorities, so that an opening date is not yet known (as of 2011).

Tourist Attractions

Calakmul Biosphere Reserve

Eagle in Calakmul

An ecological tourism project has been set up in nearby Conhuas. The model here was the lagoon of Celestun. Numerous rangers have been trained here to gently bring nature closer to small tourist groups. The project also includes training programs for children in the surrounding villages to get them excited about nature and to raise awareness of its conservation at an early age. A guide costs around € 50.00 per day and includes, in addition to the nature tour, a tour of the archaeological site. This can be booked directly through the hotels or by email at: [email protected] There are usually four different programs offered in combination or individually:

  • Bat cave. There is a large bat colony in a cave near MEX 186. In order not to endanger the bat colony, the cave itself is no longer shown (as of 2011), but if you wish, you can be taken to the vicinity of the cave exit at sunset to see when the bats suddenly leave the cave in large numbers.
  • Eagle's nest. In the park there is an eagle's nest not so far from the road to the archaeological site. A path leads from the country road into the rainforest. The guides lead small groups within sight. But only those who are quiet can make good use of this view with good binoculars.
Howler Monkey in Calakmul
  • Rainforest hike. Another path leads to a pond. Numerous tree tops can be observed very well through the gaps in the canopy. Howler monkeys and spider monkeys and numerous birds such as toucans and parrots cavort in these. If you wish, you can follow a second path to another pond. Unlike the first, this one is not interspersed with grass but allows a clear view, so that with a bit of luck you can also see a crocodile. In addition, many a surprise awaits in the undergrowth with patience and luck.
  • Jaguar night hike. Here one follows the trail of a jaguar. You usually don't see this. But the breathtaking night atmosphere of the rainforest is waiting for you.

In general, a relatively large distance from the animals is kept on all tours in order not to disturb them. Therefore, binoculars and a telephoto lens for photos are recommended.

The archaeological site

Outline map of the archaeological site

The facility is huge and takes a lot of time to visit. If you only want to see the absolute highlights (Structure I and II and the Gran Plaza), you should plan two to three hours. Good shoes, a head for heights and a certain basic level of fitness should be brought along for the ascent of the high pyramids.

Most of the complex is inaccessible or has not been excavated. But what can be seen can convince:

  • Steles. The number of steles is still growing. New ones are discovered every year. Unfortunately the quality of the stones in Calakmul is not the best. So that many are so eroded that it is no longer possible to decipher them. In addition, many of the steles from the city's last years have been laid flat and painted, which unfortunately has not survived the last few centuries.
  • Sacbé. A total of eight paved roads have been identified so far. As in other cities, these certainly had a ceremonial character, i.e. they were intended for processional purposes. The lengths vary between 70 meters and almost 70 kilometers. Sacbé 6 in particular bridges a distance of 68 kilometers and connects the city with El Mirador and El Tintal. It is quite conceivable that these also simply served the purpose of an improved infrastructure.
Gran Plaza in Calakmul
  • Gran Plaza. The Gran Plaza or Central Plaza is one of the oldest and most important squares in Calakmul. This is lined with structure VII in the north and structure II in the south. An ascent to structure VII is definitely worthwhile to enjoy a fantastic view of structure II. The pyramid is only 24 meters high, but relatively steep. Therefore, one should also be free from giddiness here. In front of the pyramid is a flat stele without any structures. Probably this dates from the late phase (10th century AD) of the city. To the east and west, the Gran Plaza is bordered by Structure VI to the west and Structure IV to the east. Structure VI is an almost rectangular platform on which there are two steles that leave a gap for the sun at sunset. Opposite is the elongated structure IV with three smaller pyramids on which this light beam is shown. This meets the day-and-night equality on March 21st. exactly on the middle pyramid. The two outer pyramids delimit the summer solstice (June 21st) and the winter solstice (December 21st). The construction of structure IV goes back to the 3rd century. v. BC and is the oldest building in the group. In the southern part of the plaza there is another building with structure 5. The steles are particularly interesting here. These are in very good condition and date from the 7th century. The two in the north show King Tajoom Uk'ab 'K'ak' and his queen each standing on a prisoner in the year 623. The other stelae are mostly assigned to Yuknoom Ch'een II at the end of the 7th century.
View from Structure II of the Gran Plaza
  • Structure II. With a side length of 120 by 120 meters, this massive pyramid is one of the largest in the entire Maya world. This 45 m high pyramid stands on an artificial platform 10 meters high. The basic structure was laid out in the late pre-classical period, and at that time it had already reached its current size. In the early classical period, however, the pyramid was revised again. In this phase the mighty porch with numerous masks and a small temple complex was added. This consisted of three temples, one facing the Gran Plaza, while the other two facing east and west. In the late classical period, the porch was built over twice with a staircase. A new temple complex with a floor plan of 12 by 20 meters has been built on the summit of the porch. In this there were some rooms and a sweat bath. When entering the pyramid, the first thing to do is to climb the porch. That is the only thing you can see from below. There are three ways to do this. Either you climb it via the middle staircase, which leads to the porch, or you choose the not so steep path via the side stairs, which are interrupted by smaller platforms. From the platform there is another steep staircase to the highest point of the pyramid. From here you have a very good view of the rainforest and see some pyramids protruding from the rainforest. If you look to the south you can see the peaks of the pyramids El Dante and El Tigre in good weather El Mirador detect. In the pyramid you have a few jade masks, all of which are in Campeche are exhibited, a completely preserved temple was found. This is currently being restored and should be made accessible to the public. In the future, the tourist should go through a small tunnel from the Gran Plaza to the temple in the pyramid. In 2011 this was not yet released.
Structure 1 as seen from structure II
  • Structure i. This pyramid can be seen very well from structure II and looks larger than structure II from there. But this is deceptive, as this pyramid was built on a small hill. In reality, at 50 meters, it is a few meters smaller than structure II. Nevertheless, you should not miss an ascent, provided you have a head for heights. From above you have a unique 360 ​​° panoramic view. Not much is known about the building, except that Yuknoom Took 'K'awiil had a few steles erected in front of the building in 731 AD.
It goes up steeply to structure I.
  • Great Acropolis. The largest building in Calakmul is divided into a north and a south part. The northern part shows, among other things, a ball playground and used to be more of a ceremonial area. The southern part, on the other hand, was probably open to the public. This was only massively expanded in the 8th century and the center was moved from the Gran Plaza to the Acropolis. Archaeologists see the possibility of a policy change in this step. You shouldn't miss to go back to structure XIII, from here you have another good view of structure I and II.
  • Small Acropolis, Acropolis Chick Naab and Área Residencial Chan Chi'ich. These three platforms with countless buildings are currently difficult to access and they are still being diligently restored and excavated. But there are still many highlights waiting for tourists here. In the Acropolis Chick Naab in house 1 a 2.60 meter long and over one meter high fresco from the 5th century. discovered AD, which is in astonishingly good condition. This shows everyday scenes of the Mayas, such as the preparation of food, and is therefore of inestimable value for archeology. Often the meaning of these paintings is matched by those of Bonampak or San Bartolo compared. Since one does not want to commit the same mistakes here as in Bonampak, this is first preserved until it is made available to the public at some point. A copy of part of the painting can be found in the entrance area of ​​the Hotel Puerta Calakmul.
Frescoes in Calakmul
  • Grupo Noreste and Sureste. The two connected groups are only accessible in the northern part. Some of the sub-assemblies date from the city's late stages and have notable architectural features from the northern Yucatán. The structures currently to be visited are only to be understood as an appetite stimulator for the rest of the facility. But since the path from the entrance to the rest of the facility can be laid through this part anyway, you should take it with you.

activities

The activities are essentially limited to:

  • Discover - The largest Mayan city in the middle of the rainforest away from the main tourist flows. Anyone who finds out about too many tourists in Chichen Itza or Tulum is right here. One often hears "It's how Tikal"Only we were there alone ...". The fact that you are still allowed to climb all pyramids is particularly noteworthy. In view of the fantastic views, many an archaeological expedition often turns into pyramid hopping the condition allows it.
  • Wildlife observation - A fantastic, almost untouched and protected nature must be discovered. Ideally, you are out and about early in the morning or at night. There is a lot to see and the nature lover will never cease to be amazed.

shop

There is a small shop in Conhuás that sells everything you need for a day's catering. You will only find further shopping opportunities in Xpujil. There is no food or drink for sale in the reserve or ruins. In the entrance area of ​​the archaeological site there is a limited sale of souvenirs and literature on the Calakmul and Mayan themes.

kitchen

The density of restaurants is limited. The best options are in the hotels (see accommodation).

nightlife

The nightlife here looks a little different than in the cities. There are no clubs and bars here, but the bear, or rather the jaguar, rages in the bush. Therefore, almost all providers also offer a night hike, if that's too daring, you should simply enjoy the background noise with a good tequila on the hotel terrace and think about the rest ...

accommodation

Hotel Puerta Calakmul
  • Rio Bec Dreams, Carretera 186, Escarcega-Chetumal Km. 142, Calakmul, Campeche, Mexico. E-mail: . The best address for all those who also visit the ruins of Chicanná and Becán want to visit. Tours to the reserve and the ruins can be booked directly from here. A restaurant and a bar complete the offer.
  • Hotel Puerta Calakmul, Carretera 186, Escarcega-Chetumal Km. 98, Calakmul, Campeche, Mexico. Tel.: 52-998-892-2624, Email: . The best but also the most expensive address. 15 small houses have been placed in the forest here at the entrance to the reserve. These are beautifully furnished and well maintained. It only disturbs the proximity to the main road. There is also a pool and a hiking trail with its own viewing point. Not to be forgotten is the restaurant, which convinces with good food and a good selection of wines at affordable prices. In the evening the manager goes from table to table and introduces one or the other guest to the world of good tequila. Of course, this hotel also offers tours into the reserve or to the ruins.Price: Approx. USD 185 per night per cottage.Accepted payment methods: No credit cards, only cash or prepayment via e.g. PayPal.
  • Yaax’Che campground (From the Caretta 186, turn south into the reserve at the village of Conhuás and pay an entrance fee. After a few kilometers the campsite is on the right). Not only a campsite but also a training center for the local guides of the eco-tourism project. Therefore an ideal starting point for tours of all kinds. There is also a restaurant here.Price: approx. € 3.00 per night. If you still need a tent, you can rent it here.

More accommodation options are in Xpujil to find.

health

There are poisonous snakes here, so careless handling is certainly not appropriate. But in view of the fact that humans are not on the menu of these animals, careful behavior appropriate to the rainforest and appropriate clothing should guarantee sufficient protection. The "most dangerous" here are almost the mosquitoes, so mosquito repellent should not be avoided. Dengue fever, which is occasionally transmitted by mosquitoes, cannot be prevented by vaccination. However, other diseases can be prevented:

  • Malaria prophylaxis should be carried at least in case of emergency.
  • A typhoid vaccination should be carried out beforehand.
  • The hepatitis A, B, tetanus and rabies vaccinations should be refreshed.

Practical advice

It is humid and humid in Calakmul, so you should always think about an adequate water supply. Especially since climbing the pyramids can be an extremely exhausting affair. It is important to be considerate of nature, especially when observing animals. The preservation of these is the top priority, and therefore sufficient distance from the animals should always be kept. An extremely quiet procedure not only avoids scaring animals, but also increases the likelihood of seeing many animals.

trips

If you haven't had enough of archaeological sites after Calakmul, you can quench your thirst for knowledge at the numerous sites in the area. Like Calakmul, these are also located in the rainforest and are often less frequented than Calakmul. We recommend here:

  • Balamku. Ruined city with a 20 meter long frieze with mythical representations.
  • Becán. This Maya city was already settled in the pre-classical period and is surrounded by a moat.
  • Chicanná. Known for a building with a well-preserved snakemouth entrance.
  • Hormiguero. Ruined city in the Rio-Bec style from the late classical period.
  • Kohunlich. In this Mayan city, a temple with five large masks is the highlight.
  • Rio Bec. Named for an architectural style in the entire region.
  • Xpuhil. There is a small ruin within walking distance of the city center.
The following next travel destinations are available for a round trip:
Playa Del Carmen.JPG
Playa del Carmen - A bathing dream with abundant shopping and nightlife. The ideal balance to Calakmul
Campeche Plaza Principal.JPG
Campeche - Capital of the state of the same name with a pirate past
GranPlazaFromTempleCrossPalenque.JPG
Palenque - Another ruin site of a former Mayan metropolis in the rainforest

literature

  • Maya. God kings in the rainforest by Nikolai Grube published by Könemann-Verlag, Cologne 2000. ISBN 3-829-01564-X .

Web links

The Mayan ruins
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